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Routes in Campi Qui Pugui

Algo muy sucio S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anabolica S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cleptomania S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Delicatessan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El logurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rodriguez Y Rodriguez S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Saiko Dase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Siouxie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Toca-me-la Sam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triste Pesadilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

This burly number offers fun moves on a steepish wall. The rock is a bit sharp in places, but fortunately the tweaky starting pockets have been comfortized. This line is much more sustained that it looks, with difficulties throughout and not much rest.

Make an easy move to reach the diving board. Attention-getting moves on thin comfortized pockets lead to a crack feature. Follow big holds up the crack until it runs out, and then a cruxy dash to the horizontal break on thin crimps. Huge moves between sharp sinker pockets pierce the intimidating bulge to the slab above. Cruise the slab to reach a high diagonaling crack. Follow the crack left thru some gnarly cactus, to the hidden acnhor.

Location

This route is up on the high ledge at the far right end of Campi (left of the enormous chimney). Its the third route from the right on the ledge, in blue/gray rock.

Protection

Bolts to 2BA. Its a bit dangerous getting to the first bolt, but there is a questionable-looking belay bolt. Stick clip highly recommended.

Photos

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