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Routes in Campi Qui Pugui

Accelera Virtuoso S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Algo muy sucio S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anabolica S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cleptomania S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Delicatessan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El iogurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El logurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rodriguez Y Rodriguez S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Saiko Dase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Siouxie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toca-me-la Sam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triste Pesadilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 745 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

Cleptomania is an excellent, sustained, technical wall climb, with several cruxes split by rests, but none so good that they diminish the endurance element. The rock is rather sharp, but on the other hand, its relatively un-polished.

Boulder up to the dangerously high first bolt. Follow a vertical seam to a horizontal break, & make balancey moves to reach the diagonal rail. Work up the rail to slopey pockets and a shake. Move back left & up, via thin, sharp crimps and a sinker pocket, to an awkward rest in a scoop. The crux works right along the strenuous, balancey undercling crack, to reach a sickle-shaped edge. Move over the intimidating bulge on thin, slopey edges to a stance on the slab below an interesting shallow crack feature. A few more techy moves on incut holds leads to the anchor.

Location

At the far left end of Campi is a ledge that hosts five routes. This is the fourth route from the left, immediately right of "Triste Pesadilla".

Protection

Bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.

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