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Blackened
5.12a,
Sport, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 71
votes
FA: Ward Smith, 2/94
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (01) Calico Basin
> Kraft Mtn Area
> Sunny & Steep
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Another of the less popular, more crimpy, routes on the left side of the wall.
A reasonable start leads to a huge move to an even more huge hold. Then you set up for a very difficult crux with another big move.
Rating is sort of a wild guess - I messed up the crux and never did really get it right: so if you have done this before and have an opinion on the difficulty, please toss it in here.
Location
One route left of Scorpions, overall the 3rd route in from the left side of the wall.
Protection
5 bolts to anchors
[Hide Photo] Fun route that is less busy than the others at the grade.
Longmont, CO
Idaho
Chosstown, USA
San Francisco, CA
Phoenix, AZ
Las Vegas, NV
Beta video with a heel hook to go to the crimp at the crux. Completely static and not using my upper body strength at all. Oct 11, 2023