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Blackened

5.12a, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 71 votes
FA: Ward Smith, Feb 1994
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Kraft Mtn Area > Sunny & Steep
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

Another of the less popular, more crimpy, routes on the left side of the wall.

A reasonable start leads to a huge move to an even more huge hold. Then you set up for a very difficult crux with another big move.

Location

Third route from the left.

Protection

5 bolts to lower-off anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun route that is less busy than the others at the grade.
[Hide Photo] Fun route that is less busy than the others at the grade.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Good route flying under the radar. Crimpy yet straightforward climbing with no dynos. Long moves, yes, but no dynamic moves required. Nov 11, 2012
JF1
Idaho
[Hide Comment] Thanks to a donation from the ASCA stainless steel carabiners and quick links were added to this anchor. Oct 29, 2013
Crimp Nasty
Chosstown, USA
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Good Route! Definitely not 12c... V2 deadpoint move and done. Not much harder than its neighbor, just different. Dec 10, 2016
Kalvin Hom
San Francisco, CA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I'm 5'7 - no dynos at all. Some big-ish moves, but crux is really just getting to a small crimp and then moving off it. Compared to all the other 12s on this wall, this one is not very memorable, and probably easier as well. Dec 4, 2020
Yeezus S
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Really loved this route, to my surprise, considering it's not as highly rated as the more popular bouldery pump fests to the right. If you like some reachy moves to crimps with technical body transitioning through the crux, this route is for you. Third clip felt by far the hardest for me, but it's totally doable if you figure out the awkward series of crimps following the crux deadpoint. Felt like the rating was pretty spot on at 12a.. super fun route, highly recommend Dec 21, 2020
Laura Tociu
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/U01u_vMkSk4
Beta video with a heel hook to go to the crimp at the crux. Completely static and not using my upper body strength at all. Oct 11, 2023