Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ward Smith, 2/94
Page Views: 1,105 total · 10/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 10, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Another of the less popular, more crimpy, routes on the left side of the wall.

A reasonable start leads to a huge move to an even more huge hold. Then you set up for a very difficult crux with another big move.

Rating is sort of a wild guess - I messed up the crux and never did really get it right: so if you have done this before and have an opinion on the difficulty, please toss it in here.

Location

One route left of Scorpions, overall the 3rd route in from the left side of the wall.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.12a
Good route flying under the radar. Crimpy yet straightforward climbing with no dynos. Long moves, yes, but no dynamic moves required. Nov 11, 2012
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Thanks to a donation from the ASCA stainless steel carabiners and quick links were added to this anchor. Oct 29, 2013
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12
Really hard set of moves right in the middle, with one particular standout. I'd agree not dynamic for most, but long is accurate. Be strong on crimps for sure. Dec 6, 2015
Michael Dom
  5.12c
Michael Dom  
  5.12c
I had to dyno to get this one. You are right at the bolt when you jump so there isn't much to fear. Dec 22, 2015
Crimp Nasty
Chosstown, USA
  5.12-
Crimp Nasty   Chosstown, USA
  5.12-
Good Route! Definitely not 12c... V2 deadpoint move and done. Not much harder than its neighbor, just different. Dec 10, 2016
sDawg  
I am 5'5" and I wouldn't say this route is reachy or dynamic. The deadpoints have high feet available if you want them.

I am not in the business of rating sport climbs but it helps my ego out to believe this is 12a. Feb 7, 2017