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Coffin Dodger

5.10+ C1, Trad, Aid, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads) Oct 15 2000
Utah > Southeast Utah > Lost World But… > Tombstone
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

The route climbs the crack system on the left of the West face.From the ground the bolt belay of P1 is visible below an obvious chimey at about 150'
P1) Begin up the crack to below an overhanging crack and right facing corner 90'(optional belay) Continue up a good quality crack to the ledge below the chimney and two bolt belay. 5.10 .C1. 150'
P2) Climb the strenuous chimney (3 bolts) to a crack and roof. Pull the roof moving right past 4 bolts up a light colored cone to natural belay at its top. 5.10+. C1. 80'
P3) Climb the 4-inch crack to a wide chimney. Walk to the back of the chimney to the north side of the tower and belay below a wide overhanging undercling crack. 5.10 C1 .50'
P4) Ascend the undercling crack, then the corner above to the summit. 5.10.C1 50'.

Descent;- Two double-rope raps to the ground.

Location

See Topo photo

Protection

Friends two sets through #6 with extra #3.#3.5. Large stoppers.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Herb coming up the final section of the pretty-damn-awesome 1st pitch
[Hide Photo] Herb coming up the final section of the pretty-damn-awesome 1st pitch
 Paul Starting P2
[Hide Photo] Paul Starting P2
Looking up the chimney
[Hide Photo] Looking up the chimney
A) Coffin Dodger. C1 5.10+ B)Tres Gatos. 5.11. A0
[Hide Photo] A) Coffin Dodger. C1 5.10+ B)Tres Gatos. 5.11. A0
It was dark when arriving on the summit when fixing the rap bolts .. the light is the photo flash.
[Hide Photo] It was dark when arriving on the summit when fixing the rap bolts .. the light is the photo flash.
Looking down second pitch
[Hide Photo] Looking down second pitch
Andy arriving top of second pitch
[Hide Photo] Andy arriving top of second pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.10+ C1
[Hide Comment] No reported second ascent as of 2014...but perhaps an attempt Jan 14, 2014
[Hide Comment] Yesterday, Herb Crimp and I did what we believe is the probable first free ascent of this route. The rock is not always the most desirable, and the climbing clocks in at a somewhat-burly .10+, but it is a fun adventure route to the top of an amazing formation. Expect some loose and sometimes crumbly rock, along with occasionally-dubious protection. We found a single set in the small sizes, down to green alien, along with doubles of everything else, triples of #3 and #4 Camalot, and a single #5 and #6 to be ideal. Jul 30, 2017
Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.10+ C1
[Hide Comment] Good one ... Yes I remember a rough section of sugar rock .. Anyway well done ... not an easy project ... As you see we had fun in the dark ...its the adventure that's memorable... All the Best from the UK. Thanks for pic. Jul 30, 2017