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Marieta de L'ull Viu

5.10c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 26 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Siurana > Valley Crags > Espero Primavera

Description

One of the best warmups at Espero Primavera, Marieta de L'ull Viu starts out juggy with non-sharp holds, to a short, burly crux at midheight. Lieback up the obvious left-facing flake, passing cool potato-sized knobs. At the fifth bolt, mantle onto the top of the flake & scope out the crux. Crank up the vertical wall on sharp thin crimps to a scoop. Exit the scoop on big prickly holds, & follow the easy slab to a high ledge & the anchor.

Location

At the far left end of the Espero Primavera cliff. Walk the trail along the base of the crag, passing behind a 30ยด-foot high pinnacle with a few short, steep routes. Beyond this is a brilliant orange streak (Mandragora). 30 feet left is a white wall with 4 bolted lines, starting from a small group of trees. This line climbs the obvious flake, and is the furthest right of the group of four, immediately right of "Camparos Toca el Dos.

Protection

Bolts to 2 BA

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ashley enjoying one of the better warm ups in the area.
[Hide Photo] Ashley enjoying one of the better warm ups in the area.
Cruising up the juggy flake.
[Hide Photo] Cruising up the juggy flake.
Cool potato knobs at the start of Marieta de L'ull Viu.
[Hide Photo] Cool potato knobs at the start of Marieta de L'ull Viu.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Seth Drew
Washington D.C.
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] It's a great warm-up climb, worthwhile to do. Just take your time and look around :) Sep 23, 2019