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Marieta de L'ull Viu
5.10c,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 26
votes
FA: unknown
International
> Europe
> Spain
> Catalonia
> Siurana
> Valley Crags
> Espero Primavera
Description
One of the best warmups at Espero Primavera, Marieta de L'ull Viu starts out juggy with non-sharp holds, to a short, burly crux at midheight. Lieback up the obvious left-facing flake, passing cool potato-sized knobs. At the fifth bolt, mantle onto the top of the flake & scope out the crux. Crank up the vertical wall on sharp thin crimps to a scoop. Exit the scoop on big prickly holds, & follow the easy slab to a high ledge & the anchor.
Location
At the far left end of the Espero Primavera cliff. Walk the trail along the base of the crag, passing behind a 30ยด-foot high pinnacle with a few short, steep routes. Beyond this is a brilliant orange streak (Mandragora). 30 feet left is a white wall with 4 bolted lines, starting from a small group of trees. This line climbs the obvious flake, and is the furthest right of the group of four, immediately right of "Camparos Toca el Dos.
Protection
Bolts to 2 BA
[Hide Photo] Cool potato knobs at the start of Marieta de L'ull Viu.
Washington D.C.