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Lamparos Toca el Dos
5.11-,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 7
votes
FA: unknown
International
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> Espero Primavera
Description
The left end of the Espero Primavera cliffband hosts a handful of nice 5.11ish slab climbs. This is one such example, and a good choice for those in search of steep slab climbing. This route is a bit squeezed among its neighbors, particularly Volta I Volta to the left, so its probably best to wait if someone is on that line.
Begin up left-facing flakes a bit left of the bolt line. Traverse back right at the third bolt, making a difficult move to reach the slanting ledge. Head up on easier terrain to an obvious bulge with a set of three two-finger pockets. The crux is a long reach from these pockets to good holds up and left. Easier climbing along the flake leads to the anchor.
Location
At the far left end of the Espero Primavera cliff. Walk the trail along the base of the crag, passing behind a 30ยด-foot high pinnacle with a few short, steep routes. Beyond this is a brilliant orange streak (Mandragora). 30 feet left is a white wall with 4 bolted lines, starting from a small group of trees. Camparos is the 3rd line from the left.
Protection
Bolts to 2BA.
[Hide Photo] Resting up just below the crux.
[Hide Photo] Beginning up Camparos. It can feel crowded due to the squeezed nature of the routes on this end of the wall.