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Remena Nena

5.12a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 36 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Siurana > Valley Crags > Espero Primavera

Description

One of the classic technical slab climbs of Siurana, Remena Nena is a cerebral outing on excellent multi-colored stone. The darker rock here bakes in the sun, so come on a cloudy day or bring loads of chalk. The line weaves radically, so keep an open mind when route-finding. The crux involves a long reach which may make this feel more difficult for shorties.

Show the Euro fun boys what´s what by cruising the initial left-facing corner with bomber fingerlocks. Mount the slab, then head pretty far right, then back left, with a difficult shuffling sequence to cross the bolt line. Continue further left, to reach a wide 2¨edge and a good shake before the crux. Mantle up onto the edge, then move up & right (reachy) to gain the bulbous left-facing corner/roof. Pump up the crack, then move back left, across the face, to another flake out left. Cruise up this to the anchor.

Location

Near the middle of the Espero cliff, climbing the pretty black & orange face immediately left of the "Tan San Fot" buttress.

Protection

Bolts to 2BA.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nearing the chains at the end of Remena Nena's orange streak
[Hide Photo] Nearing the chains at the end of Remena Nena's orange streak
Long reaches below the business.
[Hide Photo] Long reaches below the business.
Remena Nena begins up an awkward dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Remena Nena begins up an awkward dihedral.
Enjoying the classic steep slab of "Remena Nena".
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the classic steep slab of "Remena Nena".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rick Ziegler
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. Fairly sustained with a couple good rests. Solid 11d or maybe 12a. Mar 20, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Not 12a. (but really, really good!) Dec 3, 2014
Dolph
  5.12a PG13
[Hide Comment] Careful clipping the 4th bolt with the ledge below. Oct 29, 2017
[Hide Comment] Listed as 7a (11d) in every guidebook, but I agree it is hard for that grade. May 1, 2018