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Punyetera
5.13a,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
FA: unknown
International
> Europe
> Spain
> Catalonia
> Siurana
> Village Crags
> Melafots
Description
This fun & challenging roof route features a series of strenuous roof problems split by great rests. The pretty orange stone is excellent, not the least bit sharp, and more solid than it looks.
Begin up on a ledge & complete a short, balancey boulder problem to a stance on the slab above. Work up and right to another stance below the crux bulge. Core-intesive moves work up & left over this bulge. Make a pumpy traverse back right across the lip to a big undercling & a strenuous rock-over move. Shake at the jutting flake, then traverse back left under the looming final roof. An unlikely hidden mono is the key to the pumpy jugs above.
Location
On the far right end of Melafots is a yellow wall with a bright-orange roof system about half way up. Above this roof is another roof system, with a more-horizontal, orange patch on the left end. Punyatera is the right-most of two routes that finish on this second orange roof.
Protection
~8 Bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.
[Hide Photo] Just at the first crux of Punyetera. There are two more cruxes before the resting flake and then the tricky traverse, mono in the roof and final heel hook above your head! One of my favorite climbs…
[Hide Photo] Entering the bouldery crux of Punyetera.