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Triste Pesadilla
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,043 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
Although not the most remarkable-looking route, Triste Pesadilla offers brilliant moves on stellar, albeit sharp, rock. Constantly challenging, with several boulder problem cruxes and a pumpy finish. This route gets shade at 2pm, earlier than any other routes at Campi.
Begin up the sharp slab to reach the ultra-high first bolt. Chalk up, then fire over the rooflet to an awkward traverse up & right along the diagonal crack. Make desperate moves back left across the brown streak to a slabby scoop & a no hands rest below a sickle-shaped flake. Work up the flake to a gnarly pod below the bulge. Sharp, positive holds lead over dark stone to the anchor.
Begin up the sharp slab to reach the ultra-high first bolt. Chalk up, then fire over the rooflet to an awkward traverse up & right along the diagonal crack. Make desperate moves back left across the brown streak to a slabby scoop & a no hands rest below a sickle-shaped flake. Work up the flake to a gnarly pod below the bulge. Sharp, positive holds lead over dark stone to the anchor.
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