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Tant S'en Fot

5.10d, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 10 votes
FA: D. Brascó (1995)
International > Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Siurana > Valley Crags > Espero Primavera

Description

This route is highly regarded in several guidebooks, perhaps due to the unusual nature of the climbing, and there is no doubt about the route´s popularity. There are some awesome pockets on this route, but the line traverses dramatically to link the obvious weaknesses, and this detracts quite a bit, and makes the route a poor choice for those at their limit.

Begin up the chimney, but keep your eye out for face holds on the left. Jugs appear as the chimney widens, eventually reaching a good stance below the crux. Locate a good 2¨ edge on the steep face out right. Commit to the edge, and traverse strenuously on bad, polished feet, to a large pocket. Rest up here, then make big moves up and right to gain the slab. Things ease on the slab, which eventually hosts a number of interesting pockets. Head slightly right at the top to the hidden anchor below a small roof.

Location

Walk left along the base of the cliff to a gray rounded buttress, with a wide chimney crack on the left. Tan San Fot begins up this chimney & climbs the buttress. This is currently the 2nd bolted line left of the steep, orange parallel chimney of ¨Sayanora Baby¨, and the first route right of Remena ¨Nena¨.

Protection

~10 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. This is hard to clean due to the traversey nature.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ray on Tan San Fot
[Hide Photo] Ray on Tan San Fot
Starting up the uninspiring chimney.
[Hide Photo] Starting up the uninspiring chimney.
Tan San Fot starts up the chimney, traverses around the buttress, then cruises up the fun slab.
[Hide Photo] Tan San Fot starts up the chimney, traverses around the buttress, then cruises up the fun slab.
Enjoying the upper slab of TSF.
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the upper slab of TSF.