Tant S'en Fot
5.10d,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 10
votes
FA: D. Brascó (1995)
International
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Description
This route is highly regarded in several guidebooks, perhaps due to the unusual nature of the climbing, and there is no doubt about the route´s popularity. There are some awesome pockets on this route, but the line traverses dramatically to link the obvious weaknesses, and this detracts quite a bit, and makes the route a poor choice for those at their limit.
Begin up the chimney, but keep your eye out for face holds on the left. Jugs appear as the chimney widens, eventually reaching a good stance below the crux. Locate a good 2¨ edge on the steep face out right. Commit to the edge, and traverse strenuously on bad, polished feet, to a large pocket. Rest up here, then make big moves up and right to gain the slab. Things ease on the slab, which eventually hosts a number of interesting pockets. Head slightly right at the top to the hidden anchor below a small roof.
Location
Walk left along the base of the cliff to a gray rounded buttress, with a wide chimney crack on the left. Tan San Fot begins up this chimney & climbs the buttress. This is currently the 2nd bolted line left of the steep, orange parallel chimney of ¨Sayanora Baby¨, and the first route right of Remena ¨Nena¨.
Protection
~10 bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. This is hard to clean due to the traversey nature.
[Hide Photo] Tan San Fot starts up the chimney, traverses around the buttress, then cruises up the fun slab.
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the upper slab of TSF.