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The Valsalva Maneuver AKA: Left Pinball Simulator

V9, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 10 votes
FA: Tom Rangitsch, around 2001 or 2002, or Bob Murray earlier
New Mexico > Jemez Area > Ponderosa Bould… > Satellite > Pinball Simulator Area

Description

Powerful move on thin crimps with a boulder that sits behind the problem that it seems like you could land on when you swing out.

Start on the arete of Pinball Simulator, but move up into the scooped face to the left. Make some tricky but easier moves to get established on a pair of thin edges. Bust the crux move to the edge a few feet below the lip, then reach to the square cut lip and mantle out.

Location

This problem shares the start of Pinball Simulator but climbs the scooped face to the left of that problem. As the trail heads up the gully it will pass under a steep arete with another boulder on the right. Start on the arete.

Protection

Pads and spotter.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the way most people do the jump move.
[Hide Photo] This is the way most people do the jump move.
Chris E making light work of Left Pinball
[Hide Photo] Chris E making light work of Left Pinball
Moving from the arete onto the scooped face.
[Hide Photo] Moving from the arete onto the scooped face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David HH
CR, CO
[Hide Comment] Awesome video! Nice work guys! Mar 7, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
  V9-10
[Hide Comment] What happened to the video??? Mar 10, 2010
Jarred Cleerdin
  V10
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=ExsW1_e… Jul 21, 2010
Tom Rangitsch
Lander, Wy
[Hide Comment] I think I did the first ascent of this problem with Adam Barber around 2001or 2002. Adam did the "First Arete" to its right and a few days later I was able to send this one. I called it The Valsalva Maneuver (which is the act of bearing down to take a dump), as it requires a bit of tension to do the crux. We assumed that our "first ascents" were really repeats of Bob Murray problems as he was known to get around. I wonder if the problem has broken or something because I felt it was about v8. I have always considered this my favorite boulder fa, and the satellite area has always been a favorite area of mine. Just wanted to add a little history. Aug 22, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
  V9-10
[Hide Comment] Tom, differences in opinion of grade are pretty easy to trace on this one. You are a skinny bastard with stupid strong fingers, while I'm a fat a$$ with lots of finger problems and have a hard time crimping anything...I have heard others call it V8 as well, but for me it took longer than anything else I've done in Ponderosa except Mario Andretti. Aug 29, 2011
Tom Rangitsch
Lander, Wy
[Hide Comment] Lee- thanks for the praise, but you are definitely a stronger bastard than I will ever be. Guess I will take the 10- grade, since it means that I have actually accomplished a long term goal of mine, if only in retrospect. Sep 10, 2011
Owen S
Los Alamos, NM
[Hide Comment] I thought the Valsalva Maneuver is the act of cleaning/opening up your ears/sinuses by holding hold nose and trying to blow through it. Bit of a misnomer here... May 13, 2017
Tom Rangitsch
Lander, Wy
[Hide Comment] Actually, the Valsalva Maneuver is increasing your intrathoracic pressure against a closed glottis. At least that is what I learned in medical school. Maybe technically it was first described as a way to equalize the pressure in your ears, but in common medical parlance it is bearing down for whatever reason. Usually we use it to try to increase vagal tone in a patient with a specific arrhythmia. At any rate, I named this problem that because I really had to bear down on those crimps. Jun 1, 2017
Ryan Salazar
  V9
[Hide Comment] Fun for the tall and the small. Two completely different foot betas for the different heights. Both methods are still very dynamic to the crimp. Once you snatch it, it should be over. Fantastic climb. TBH, I consider this to be easier than Better Eat Your Wheaties at Hueco Tanks, which I rated v9 (had a sexist downgrade to v8). I am tall but in no way a slim climber, and crimping is not my absolute forte. I took the NM guidebook grade, but for me I have mixed feelings that the tall man jump could make it v8 or easier with some precision and hip swing control involved. Irregardless, a classic that anyone with a decent amount of crimp strength or stoke could surprise themselves with a good experience. Jun 6, 2019