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Routes in Pinball Simulator Area

"Girl" Problem V5 6C
Pinball Simulator/ First Arete V6 7A
Project 2 V8 7B
Right to Scoop V5 6C
Scoop V7 7A+
Scoop Mantle V4-5 6B+
Scoop Right V7-8 7B
Timeline V9 7C
Valsalva Maneuver AKA: Left Pinball Simulator, The V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Adam Barber, around 2001 or 2002, or Bob Murray earlier
Page Views: 770 total, 8/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Dec 7, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A sweet looking line with pretty good climbing as well. A bit intimidating with the boulder that sits behind it, potential to hit your head and you have to avoid hitting it when topping out.

Start on the arete and move up using edges on the right and pockets on the left. The crux involves gaining a small 2-3 finger pocket right on the arete with your left hand. From here another couple of moves leads to the square cut top.

Location

A you walk up the gully the trail will take you right under the arete. There is a boulder that sits behind this problem and is quite close at the lip.

Protection

Pads and a couple of spotters, one on the ground and one on the rock behind.
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Tom R. e-mailed me about the area. He mentioned that he had climbed up there a bunch with Craig from 2001-2003 though he felt there was avery real possiblity that many of the problems that they did had been done previously by either Bob Murray or possibly John D.

Nice story though about Jake and Gail. Dec 31, 2009
Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
FA of "First Arete" now called Pinball Simulator

Many of these were found and done in 2001 by Craig "Opie" Copelin, Tom Rangitsch, Scott Hubbard, Eric "Peck" Heatwole, and Cody Roth. There is a pic of Bloody Tissue/ Left Arete boulder before being climbed by Jake R and Bob Broilo. Jake sacrificed his shin for his future wife which was insufficiently repaired by some toilet paper, the grim story of which gives the boulder it's name. Dec 31, 2009