Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,458 total · 104/month
Shared By: Brad G on Dec 7, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route is Amazing! The Second pitch is maybe one of the finest splitters at Indian Creek. 100 feet of full value crack climbing.

P.1 Climb the broken crack system that leads up to a face protected by a few bolts. Pull the roof and belay at the bolts below the amazing splitter. 5.12-

P.2 The Crack starts with ratally fingers then finger stacks then 70 feet of super tight hands then back to finger stacks then five feet of rattaly fingers again to the bolts at the sloppy ledge. PUMPY!!!

This route will feel much harder for those with bigger hands.


The obvious splitter 120 feet of the ground. You cant miss it.


.3 to 3 camolot
four .5's, six .75's, seven 1's


Scott Bennett
Scott Bennett  
Yeah Brad, thanks for added this, we'll all have to get back out there in the spring and send this beast.
A few extra comments:

-I think the FA was Steve Hong, based on the SH stamped bolts at the belays. Anyone know the full FA team?
-The first 40' or so of the first pitch are loose and pretty much unprotected; easy (5.9ish), but don't blow it. After that, the first pitch was pretty fun, with some interesting steep face climbing at the crux.
-You can rap the first pitch (as well as the 2nd) with a 70m. No need to bring two ropes up there, unless you want some rad photos (thanks Brad!)
-Brad placed a bunch of red camalots on the 2nd pitch, but they were all very tight. I used more green camalots, a bit tipped out but easier to place. #2 friends (or red link cams) are great.

-Scott Dec 8, 2009
m-earle   USA
In Nov 09, there was a rats nest of crispy faded slings up there. If you plan on heading up, think about replacing the old webbing with some chains or rings.

m Dec 8, 2009
Feb 2012. I replaced the tat with chains and added a 1/2" by 6" (yeah, buddy- 6"!) bolt to each anchor on 6 Star. Left the Hong bolts for posterity. Feb 29, 2012
BTW Brad, what did you guys do up there to make that ledge so "sloppy"? Feb 29, 2012