PRINT: Rock Climb Ten Days After, Yosemite National Park

Ten Days After

5.8 C3, Trad, Aid, 1100 ft (333 m), 13 pitches, Grade V,

Avg: 3.3 from 11 votes
FA: John Barbella & Eric Brand, February 1987
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > I. Washington Column

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Description

This is a great route with some fun exposure. It's a lesser traveled route on the column, good training for more moderate El Cap routes or as an intro to nailing. The line follows large, steep and clean features for the first half; the second half has smaller features and more rivets before joining the Prow at Tapir Terrace. All placements on the wild circle-head traverse were fixed as of Sept09. Although other fixed pieces ripped on me. We placed only a few pins, this route could easily go clean for those with sufficient aid-trickery experience.

Most belays are bolted. Have fun!

Protection

Take all the toys described in the SuperTopo guidebook, with an emphasis on small offset cams/ nuts. It's unlikely that you will need any heads/ circle heads but bring them in case fixed gear is missing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of pitch 3

Looking back across the fixed circle head traverse

the awesome splitter 3rd pitch

Traverse at the start of pitch 4

Starting the crux traverse

Staze cleaning the cruiser C1 pitch down low

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Osprey Overhang
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FA: John Barbella, Eric Brand, 2/1987 Mar 7, 2012

Bryan G
June Lake, CA

Pitch 1 has a short section of mandatory 5.9 free climbing (after the bolt) that feels stout when it's covered in ants and you're self-belayed. Pitch 2 is also dripping wet in the spring and I had to pull like 40lbs of grass and vegetation out of the crack. If you're soloing, then link pitch 6 (the traverse) with pitch 7. You might need a 70m to do this, but it makes cleaning the traverse on rappel super easy.

Bring a couple small beaks and a sawed-off KB. Also bring a handful of heads and something to clean deadheads. You don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. Apr 22, 2016

walmongr
Gilbert AZ

How are the anchors on this Route? Headed up in June to do this route. Does it need any work. would be willing to take a drill and do some community service. May 10, 2016

Nick Zmyewski
Newark, DE

Just went up this. All of the anchors seem good. Most are two or three bolts. The traverse pitch has one head missing, I cleaned out the head and was able to pass it with a micro beak placed horizontally. Everything else went fine without having to place any heads. Definitely don't need any cams larger than a #3. We only hammered four times and they were all beaks, possibly could have been hand placed. Jul 31, 2016

Lance Colley
Yosemite Valley

This is a cool route to get away from the crowds on the rest of the column and climb some cool features. We brought 2 ea large and medium beaks, one small beak and 2 arrows #2 and #3. This rack worked for us. Bring lots of cams for the long C1 corner features. Both traverses are nearly all fixed heads and mank. We ran into problems where a tricam is fixed in a placement and the sling has completely deteriorated and unusable which makes a new placement impossible. Definitely bring circle heads for any that you rip, an arrow or two, maybe a knifeblade could also be nice to have on the traverse. Definitely no #4 is needed. Oct 15, 2022

Joe Forrester
Palo Alto

5.8 A2+

Overall great line. No arrows placed. Didn't use any hooks as beak placements abound. In addition to two sets of offsets/totems, nice to have a triple set of cams 0.3-1 to speed up the C1 sections. Could do with 2 #3s, 1#4 and one #5 (5 for the prow topout). Hauling the last pitch is interesting. Nov 2, 2023

Matthew DiNome
Yonkers

Really nice route! Only lead the first half, but those C1/C2 pitches are so much fun! Plug and Chug. Started on the Prow and traversed over on rivets at the end pf Pitch 2. Plenty of fixed gear on the circle head traverse. Partner said the crux pitch wasnt too bad as there are bolts/ fixed gear every so often to keep it tame. Might be my favorite on the column so far....! Triples in .3 - 1 for sure. Only needed/could have used a #4 for the last few pitches on the prow. Nov 16, 2023