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Routes in Saxon Rock

Saxon Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
South Face S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wanted Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: RMWright, Fall, 2009?
Page Views: 751 total, 8/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Wanted Man is a terrific little route on near perfect granite. Scramble up to the ledge below the face. A few small cams may be nice for the belay, but are probably not necessary. The moves up to and through the parallel seams are just too good to be true. Too bad this is such a small crag. This kind of climbing one might wish to go on and on. There is still some lichen to brush, but if you stay out of the corner and follow the bolt line the climbing is on very clean rock.

Location

Face right of the arete.

Protection

Quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

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tbol
Front Range, CO.
tbol   Front Range, CO.
Richard,

People have been top roping these little climbs for years. Not that I am opposed to bolting them, they are fun. But... had you considered the local ethics before you bolted them and claimed a first ascent? I am not trying to be disrespectful. I am just a local who in fact learned to climb on these routes, definitely before 2009, and I know I was not the first to do so. Does it count as a FA only if you bolt it?

On a somewhat different note... considering you are developing the areas in Clear Creek County, I would like to get in on the action. I grew up in Georgetown and the Floyd Hill Area and know of some rocks that may be of interest. To my knowledge, I have some FAs around, too, but I haven't posted them. I am selfish and don't want my secret oasis to become popularized. It is inevitable though, so I might as well try and make my mark while I have a chance. Also, the climbing around there is very special to me, as this is where I learned and grew up. I would love to help you further develop the area. Please contact me and let me know if you want some help or a partner in crime. Nov 4, 2010