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Routes in Lost World Butte

Birthday Gift, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0 R
Choss Dispenser, The 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Entreating Entrance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gateway to the Lost World. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Golden Brown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Howe/Ross - End of the World Crag T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1
IF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3-
Kripling Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Pearly Gates T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1
Persistence Rules T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C1
Road Not Taken, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spartans at the Door T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 390 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Todd Swain (var leads) Donnette Swain.Paul Gardner 26th sept 2000
Page Views: 595 total, 6/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 3, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This was the first route to reach the summit of this massive Butte. Amazing considering its closeness to Moab.The left summit has a register. The top of the Butte is very beautiful and the views are outstanding.It is truly a journey into the lost world. P1) Use #0.5 to #4 Friends to climb free or and on aid to bolt anchors .Continue up an overhanging off-width,passing two bolts to an anchor at the base of a chimney. 5.8,C1 or 5.10+ 100'P2)Climb an unprotected chimney 5.7(30') to four bolts enables an escape right to slabs and bolt belay.5.8 90' P3 Go left up an easy flake,then move right to a large ledge and traverse right to an obvious intermittent vertical crack that improves as height is gained. Climb the crack (5.7).(TCU's and small cams for pro)to a large ledge system. Belay on Blocks to the left. 5.8 200' P4)The Butte has a west and east summit . To gain the two summits ,to gain the two summits either scramble up a short slab to the left,fourth class,40',or follow the ramp to the right, which leads to the saddle between the two summits.Descent:- Rap 100'to top of P2 from slings around a large summit boulder,then 90' to the top of P1.The final rap is 100' to the ground... or rap Pearly Gates.

Location

The climb is right of Kripling Groove.faces East and is not in view from the flat rock parking.Keep hiking to the right along the Butte it is well to the left of Pearly Gates. The first pitch is striking ..see photo.

Protection

Friends #0.5 through #4 with many #2 #2.5 #3 : Tcu's ,webbing 20' plus feet for the summit rap from a large boulder ., or one can rap Pearly Gates.Two 60m ropes

Photos

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