PRINT: Climb Hanging Slab Gully, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Hanging Slab Gully

WI3, Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 2.5 from 15 votes
FA: ??
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Allen's Ridge Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

A short steep section of ice with an upper lower angle gully in a nice location.

Pitch 1: 60 feet of ice with two short steps (8 feet and 15 feet). Ends in a fixed anchor perfect for catching a few extra laps or schooling folks. Right side of the falls has fun features linkable in little to no ice conditions.

Pitch 2+: Continue up low angle gully. At 120 feet theres a tree with a sling for a rappel up on the climbers right and at another 120 feet above that, theres another tree on the climbers right with a rap sling as well.

Note: take care with any new snow or rapidly changing temperatures as the gully above would be an avalanche chute (note how far up that gully is missing trees).

Location

This ice climb is located to the east of Super Slab and to the west of Hanging Slab. Locate the distinctive cut out where the hanging slab has pulled out of the cliff above and just to the right, theres a gully: voila, thats the climb. Easily scoped from the road in LCC. When the snow gets deeper near the mouth of Little Cottonwood, this climb goes under.

Use the standard approach for Trench Warfare or the Steinfell Route, taking note the old remnants of a road and quarry efforts in the area. Couple options for approach. Cross the creek, go up through the woods and instead of aiming for the gully directly, stay left in the pine trees following a faint trail which leads to Trench Warfare area, then when nearly to that route (big slab with alcove under it and a roof crack) cut right to the gully.

Or, hike in from the right side and follow the lower angle gully to the base of the route. Can be a bit brushy and scrambly.

Protection

Selection of ice screws. If venturing above the initial steep falls, might be prudent to toss in a selection of pitons should the ice be thin and protection desired.

Slings on trees on the upper pitches were in place for the 2004/2005 season.

First short pitch has a fixed anchor with rappel rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hanging Slab Gully ice climb. Hanging Slab on the left, gully on the right.

More of the upper gully Feb 9 2022

Upper gully Feb 9 2022

Pitch 2 Feb 9 2022

Pitch 1 Feb 9 2022

Clearing the top bulge of P1. Taken from the anchors looking down.

Top of P3

Thick second step.

Hanging Slab first curtain on 1/8/14.

Right side of p1 of Hanging Slab Gully is "doable" in thin conditions...

Hanging Slab Gully first pitch in thin, wet conditions.

Upper lower angle gully of Hanging Slab Gully.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bsmoot

This is a fun little climb. Get on it now...as soon as more snow comes, it gets buried. Dec 3, 2009

mountainsense

Brian,
As I recall, there's a new-ish three-bolt anchor atop the first pitch, on the east (up-canyon) side of the gully. Are they your doing? Was the anchor installed to provide a descent for the ice climb itself, or has there been activity higher, on Allen's ridge, perhaps? S Dec 3, 2009

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah

WI3

Nah, anchor's not mine (that big tree woulda worked for me!). But, they've been there since at least 2004. I seem to recall I met the guy who placed them, and, the idear was that it was a good spot to take beginners to learn them some ice climbing, without having to go to the crowded first pitch of Stairway or the bicycle (GWI).

Was looking pretty doable yesterday (12/2/09). I never see anyone on it. Be a good venue for folks looking to get a bit of climbing in, but, not wanting to hassle with the herd up canyon. Dec 3, 2009

tenesmus

I can see how that huge dead tree will eventually succumb. The bolter must have anticipated quite a crowd at that first belay: 3 Fixe anchor bolts with double rap rings.

With a 70m rope we rapped from the green sling on the little tree on the right at the top of the 2nd pitch. We noticed a beat up red sling on climbers right around an old rotten mini-stump of a tree. That was jingus looking so we traversed left to a couple of more robust looking but smallish trees and then down to the bolted anchors. So bring some slings. Dec 5, 2009

zoso	[Hide Comment] It also wouldn't hurt to hack a few saplings that are close to this rap Ten describes. Fun route--easy after the 1st bit and w/an alpine feel. Dec 7, 2009

Garret Nuzzo Jones
Salt Lake City, UT

Rap rings are obvious on the top of the first pitch but I didn't see any slings further up. Might have to do some digging in the snow. It's also quite easy to downclimb that upper part of the gully, it's low angle for most of the ways. Jan 8, 2014