Avg: 2.6 from 14 votes
|Type:||Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||3,324 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Dec 2, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch 1: 60 feet of ice with two short steps (8 feet and 15 feet). Ends in a fixed anchor perfect for catching a few extra laps or schooling folks. Right side of the falls has fun features linkable in little to no ice conditions.
Pitch 2+: Continue up low angle gully. At 120 feet theres a tree with a sling for a rappel up on the climbers right and at another 120 feet above that, theres another tree on the climbers right with a rap sling as well.
Note: take care with any new snow or rapidly changing temperatures as the gully above would be an avalanche chute (note how far up that gully is missing trees).
Use the standard approach for Trench Warfare or the Steinfell Route, taking note the old remnants of a road and quarry efforts in the area. Couple options for approach. Cross the creek, go up through the woods and instead of aiming for the gully directly, stay left in the pine trees following a faint trail which leads to Trench Warfare area, then when nearly to that route (big slab with alcove under it and a roof crack) cut right to the gully.
Or, hike in from the right side and follow the lower angle gully to the base of the route. Can be a bit brushy and scrambly.
Slings on trees on the upper pitches were in place for the 2004/2005 season.
First short pitch has a fixed anchor with rappel rings.