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Routes in Allen's Ridge Area

Alpenbock Crack T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hanging Slab Gully WI3
Steinfell Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Trench Warfare T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,957 total, 20/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A short steep section of ice with an upper lower angle gully in a nice location.

Pitch 1: 60 feet of ice with two short steps (8 feet and 15 feet). Ends in a fixed anchor perfect for catching a few extra laps or schooling folks. Right side of the falls has fun features linkable in little to no ice conditions.

Pitch 2+: Continue up low angle gully. At 120 feet there’s a tree with a sling for a rappel up on the climber’s right and at another 120 feet above that, there’s another tree on the climber’s right with a rap sling as well.

Note: take care with any new snow or rapidly changing temperatures as the gully above would be an avalanche chute (note how far up that gully is missing trees).

Location

This ice climb is located to the east of Super Slab and to the west of Hanging Slab. Locate the distinctive cut out where the hanging slab has pulled out of the cliff above and just to the right, there’s a gully: voila, that’s the climb. Easily scoped from the road in LCC. When the snow gets deeper near the mouth of Little Cottonwood, this climb goes under.

Use the standard approach for Trench Warfare or the Steinfell Route, taking note the old remnants of a road and quarry efforts in the area. Couple options for approach. Cross the creek, go up through the woods and instead of aiming for the gully directly, stay left in the pine trees following a faint trail which leads to Trench Warfare area, then when nearly to that route (big slab with alcove under it and a roof crack) cut right to the gully.

Or, hike in from the right side and follow the lower angle gully to the base of the route. Can be a bit brushy and scrambly.

Protection

Selection of ice screws. If venturing above the initial steep falls, might be prudent to toss in a selection of pitons should the ice be thin and protection desired.

Slings on trees on the upper pitches were in place for the 2004/2005 season.

First short pitch has a fixed anchor with rappel rings.
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Rap rings are obvious on the top of the first pitch but I didn't see any slings further up. Might have to do some digging in the snow. It's also quite easy to downclimb that upper part of the gully, it's low angle for most of the ways. Jan 8, 2014
zoso
 
zoso  
 
It also wouldn't hurt to hack a few saplings that are close to this rap Ten describes.
Fun route--easy after the 1st bit and w/an alpine feel. Dec 7, 2009
I can see how that huge dead tree will eventually succumb. The bolter must have anticipated quite a crowd at that first belay: 3 Fixe anchor bolts with double rap rings.

With a 70m rope we rapped from the green sling on the little tree on the right at the top of the 2nd pitch. We noticed a beat up red sling on climbers right around an old rotten mini-stump of a tree. That was jingus looking so we traversed left to a couple of more robust looking but smallish trees and then down to the bolted anchors. So bring some slings. Dec 5, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Nah, anchor's not mine (that big tree woulda worked for me!). But, they've been there since at least 2004. I seem to recall I met the guy who placed them, and, the idear was that it was a good spot to take beginners to learn them some ice climbing, without having to go to the crowded first pitch of Stairway or the bicycle (GWI).

Was looking pretty doable yesterday (12/2/09). I never see anyone on it. Be a good venue for folks looking to get a bit of climbing in, but, not wanting to hassle with the herd up canyon. Dec 3, 2009
Brian,
As I recall, there's a new-ish three-bolt anchor atop the first pitch, on the east (up-canyon) side of the gully. Are they your doing? Was the anchor installed to provide a descent for the ice climb itself, or has there been activity higher, on Allen's ridge, perhaps? S Dec 3, 2009
bsmoot  
This is a fun little climb. Get on it now...as soon as more snow comes, it gets buried. Dec 3, 2009