Type: Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,323 total · 19/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A short steep section of ice with an upper lower angle gully in a nice location.

Pitch 1: 60 feet of ice with two short steps (8 feet and 15 feet). Ends in a fixed anchor perfect for catching a few extra laps or schooling folks. Right side of the falls has fun features linkable in little to no ice conditions.

Pitch 2+: Continue up low angle gully. At 120 feet there’s a tree with a sling for a rappel up on the climber’s right and at another 120 feet above that, there’s another tree on the climber’s right with a rap sling as well.

Note: take care with any new snow or rapidly changing temperatures as the gully above would be an avalanche chute (note how far up that gully is missing trees).

Location

This ice climb is located to the east of Super Slab and to the west of Hanging Slab. Locate the distinctive cut out where the hanging slab has pulled out of the cliff above and just to the right, there’s a gully: voila, that’s the climb. Easily scoped from the road in LCC. When the snow gets deeper near the mouth of Little Cottonwood, this climb goes under.

Use the standard approach for Trench Warfare or the Steinfell Route, taking note the old remnants of a road and quarry efforts in the area. Couple options for approach. Cross the creek, go up through the woods and instead of aiming for the gully directly, stay left in the pine trees following a faint trail which leads to Trench Warfare area, then when nearly to that route (big slab with alcove under it and a roof crack) cut right to the gully.

Or, hike in from the right side and follow the lower angle gully to the base of the route. Can be a bit brushy and scrambly.

Protection

Selection of ice screws. If venturing above the initial steep falls, might be prudent to toss in a selection of pitons should the ice be thin and protection desired.

Slings on trees on the upper pitches were in place for the 2004/2005 season.

First short pitch has a fixed anchor with rappel rings.

Photos