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Kripling Groove
5.8 C2,
Trad, Aid, 320 ft (97 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Lost World But…
> Lost World Butte
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
P1) Climb the corner crack to a two bolt belay .C2,110'.5.9 P2 Follow a sandy crack to a move right to a ledge. Climb free past a large blocks to bolt anchors below a superb looking 3.5 inch overhanging crack 5.7 C1 60'P3)Follow the spectacular crack leap frogging #3 and #3.5 friends to bolt anchors below an right leaning overhanging flake. 5.7 C2 90'P4)With large cams climb the flake and finish up a wide chimney to the top.5.6 C1 60'. Descent:- Rap to a long ledge from two bolts belay station located by walking the descent from "Gateway to the Lost World". An easier descent can be made down Pearly Gates . Follow the long ledge right for about 10 mins to rap anchors that brings one to the midway point on the Pearly Gates easy ramp.Walk down to a bolt that protects the last few moves to the ground.
Location
The route follows a very steep and sometimes an overhanging groove/crack system up the prominent buttress between Mirage Crack and "Gateway to the Lost World"Kripling Groove is a pun on a famous English Lake District climb named Kipling Groove (Rudyard).On the first attempt when the peyote moon was prominent ,Ross took a fall near the top of the first pitch tearing a leg muscle. At the start of the second pitch Pheasant took a fall ,hitting his foot on a ledge fracturing his heel bone,and was last seen hopping with his foot in plaster back to Hawaii !Ross took a week off and returned with Potter to complete the climb.
Protection
Friends , Many #).5 through #2 for P1, Three #3 through #3.5. for P2 Standard desert rack including two #5 and one #6 ,a few medium stoppers two 60m ropes.
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