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Routes in Upper Tier

Bastard Son, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dee-Lite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skirts Up Pants Down S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twister, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Bolts by C Thornley
Page Views: 4,107 total · 41/month
Shared By: CO_Michael on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Grey slab that has two starts (left harder). Has a belay bolt and a little exposure. Above Yappin' Chihuahua.

Location

Upper Tier across from Sun Tower

Protection

All bolts with anchors.

Photos

Timothy Carlson
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Timothy Carlson   Flagstaff, AZ
 
A pretty good climb for a new leader. I was practicing gear placements on it this weekend. Feb 26, 2017
Bolted crack in a mostly sport area! Climber does it all on gear. Looks like both styles win. I don't think every trad or r/x route should be bolted. However we sometimes bolt cracks on Lemmon as well. If it is an area where people rarely if ever have a rack with them we bolt it unless it is a really good trad route. I mean the kind of route people will carry a rack to climb even if it is the only trad climb there. Jul 30, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
But thats exactly why it was bolted. While Flag is blessed with a lot of crags with worthy sport and trad routes on the same walls, the Pit is certainly not one of these. If this is your first encounter with such a thing, it won't be your last. Plenty of great trad climbing around, I just hate to see you so disappointed in the world. Jul 29, 2013
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
 
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
 
I understand the pit is primarily a sport area but I couldn't help but feel like a perfectly good trad line was bolted only because it was in a sport area. Jul 29, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
that's awesome Jul 29, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Micah, many, but not all the routes here were established on lead with the use of gear and hooks to drill the bolts. People were not looking for trad climbs here. They were looking for sport routes. You will probably find more satisfaction taking your rack to a trad crag. Jul 29, 2013
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
 
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
 
The bolts on this route are ridiculous. I led the left side entirely on gear and it protected fine. I don't understand why there were put there. I would say its easier then 5.8 also. Jul 28, 2013
J. Hickok
  5.9-
J. Hickok  
  5.9-
Left start 5.9 - maybe 5.8+? Just for a quick move. Didn't climb right start. Mar 4, 2012

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