Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 482 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This route starts just right of Slander Magnet and climbs over two sloping ledges to a series of challenging and cryptic face and arete moves. The route could still use some cleaning up on the right-hand side but is generally secure. I also felt that one of the bolts [I think the 7th] was somewhat poorly placed. A few inches lower would make a clip easy from below, but currently you must make some tenuous moves to find a proper hold above the bolt from which to clip.

Location

This route starts about ten feet right of Slander Magnet, beneath two sloping ledges.

Protection

11 bolts, two-bolt anchor/rap

Photos

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Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.11d
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.11d
This route was a battle for me. The climbing is very continuous and it is often difficult to determine what the correct sequence is. I sometimes used holds on the right-hand arete, but figured that anything further over was off route [and caked in dirt]. I would not recommend this route to climbers breaking into this grade. Dec 2, 2009
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11c
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11c
While Uncle Ho was being developed, this route had a lot of touch up done to it. I didn't try the route in its original form, but I think this route can be a new area classic for being in the 5.11 range. Sections of this route can be done in various ways depending on your height or how you want to climb it. Route has a good pump factor to it. You can set up TR on this route but doing Uncle Ho, and you can also continue up this route to the anchors of Uncle Ho for additional fun climbing. Feb 6, 2014
I agree it can be done in various ways but try not to veer off right onto the arete too much, especially towards the top where I really enjoyed the wide compression squeeze of each side of the protruding block. Smear your feet, throw a toe around the sides, and bump your hands up a few times and you'll be back onto the positive holds.

I might say the crux was down low a set of small underclings combined with a tiny crimp before making your way over a short bulge but the sequence is really cool. Jul 19, 2014