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Routes in Lost World Butte

Birthday Gift, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0 R
Choss Dispenser, The 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Entreating Entrance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gateway to the Lost World. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
Golden Brown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Howe/Ross - End of the World Crag T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1
IF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3-
Kripling Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Pearly Gates T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1
Persistence Rules T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C1
Road Not Taken, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spartans at the Door T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasant .9th June 2001
Page Views: 2,939 total, 30/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 2, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


P1)Begin up the ramp,passed a 5.4 section at 25' to cam belays below two large cracks.140'P2)Continue easy climbing between the cracks to a good ledge and cam belay 5.5 60'P3 Follow 6 bolts up the slightly overhanging headwall to bolt belays.C1 50'.From here one can hike to the west summit and register.Descent. Rap from bolts about 80' left of the top belay anchors . One 130' rap to the ramp then follow ramp to the ground


The route climbs the obvious easy looking right slanting ramp. One of the easiest climbs in the desert that takes one onto the tops of a beautiful Butte with excellent views.


Friends two # 2.5 one #3 aiders, two 60m ropes for the rappel.
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Amazing that some folk are so inconsiderate and cheap to steal bolt hangers.However, there was always an awkward finish to the last pitch Nov 21, 2017
  • **Missing Hanger on bolt ladder*** Bring a hanger!!

Hanger is now missing from the 2nd bolt on 11/20/17. (The 4th hanger was missing, I clipped the 3rd bolt, removed the hanger from the 2nd bolt, and placed it on the fourth bolt).

If I had read the comments I would have replaced it myself.

Can confirm 2 60s stretch to the ground, big gear needed if you want to protect the 2nd pitch. A 6 might work, but it's wide. Easy climbing, but face holds are crumbly.

Pulling your rope is a shit show. So much friction at the top I thought they were stuck. Whip and pull baby ;) Nov 20, 2017
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
2x 60 m made it to the ground. Got ropes stuck in grooves while pulling, but after a lot of effort managed to whip em out. Apr 18, 2017
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The route has been up quite a few years ... so traffic on sandstone bolts will loosen but usually stay in place... Perhaps needs maintenance ... There was always a tricky exit ...sure a bolt was missing ? Apr 20, 2016
Brian Fabel  
The fifth bolt was still missing the hanger as of April 2016. Makes for an excited ending at the grade....

Also, the bolts wiggle and are loose. Yikes! Apr 19, 2016
Nate Sydnor   Moab
The fifth bolt was missing the hanger as of 11/15/15 Nov 15, 2015
Very worth doing, consider making it a two pack with Tombstone.

That said, OP's rack recommendation is loony.
A #4 Camalot would protect the first crux, otherwise there is no pro
A medium nut can be placed after the first crux, at the start of the traverse, to protect the 2nd
A #6 Camalot might protect the second crux, otherwise there is no pro.
A .5 Camalot provides a decent anchor piece at the 2nd belay to supplement the detached block that people seem to sling as the primary/only anchor.
A #3 Camalot protects the wild exit move.

The the exit move which I did differently than Frankie P. did in A. Roberts photo is likely the wildest passage I have ever encountered in the grade range.

We didn't have any problem pulling our ropes after the rap. Apr 3, 2014
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The bolt on the first pitch was used for the descent as the party climbed down the ramp and use it to safe guard last few feet to the ground. Mar 27, 2014
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
Just be aware that there is pretty much zero gear on the second pitch until you get to the belay ledge below the bolt ladder.

Also, there is now a bolt on the first pitch. It looked pretty new and shiny, although I'm not sure of the purpose since its in an area of super easy climbing (walking). The rap is still a pain, but I'm not sure there is really a way to make it any better. You might want to bring some long webbing if you head up, the rap anchor looked good but some of it was definitely aging. Nov 26, 2013
A. Roberts
Boulder, CO
A. Roberts   Boulder, CO
The webbing on the rap was is bad shape. We extended it to reach over the edge. We were able to get all the way to the ground with one double rope rap, and had no problem pulling them. Not the most "classic" of routes, but a fun diversion. Nov 21, 2011
Bill Duncan
Jamestown, CO
Bill Duncan   Jamestown, CO
This is a very aesthetic place to be. Casual route, as advertised. Be very careful with rope placement on the rap, as the rap station is not ideally located for pulling lines. We were very careful and still got a core shot. Apr 30, 2010