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Pinky Paralysis

5.11c, Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 20 votes
FA: FP(cleaned): Mark Chapman, Kevin Worrall, by 1975 FA: John Bachar, Jim Bridwell, 1975
California > Yosemite NP > Lower Merced Ri… > e. Finger Lickin' Area
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Formerly known as A Great Day In Baseball, this stellar crack is normally done in two short pitches or one long pitch if you have it dialed.

Pitch one climbs a broken crack up to a roof. Good moves take you out left. Jam your way to the chains.

Pitch two climbs a sustained thin finger crack with slightly painful locks and small edges for your feet.

Location

From Jaw Bone, Continue right and up 50 feet until the trail breaks left. Follow the trail left until you reach a broken crack under a roof. This is the start.

Protection

Bring gear to 3 inches, plus slings, and extra tcu's and/or small aliens. Rappel from chains once with two ropes or twice with one rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Staring up what I thought to be the crux of the route.
[Hide Photo] Staring up what I thought to be the crux of the route.
Short, but good and splitter. And hard
[Hide Photo] Short, but good and splitter. And hard
The entire route, include the excellent roof on p1. Get on it!
[Hide Photo] The entire route, include the excellent roof on p1. Get on it!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] What is the most usfull size aliens for second pitch crux? green/yellow/red? Dec 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] It tapers down as you climb it; bring 'em all.

With a 70 and some long slings for the start I think it's a reasonable half-rope pitch. Dec 6, 2009
Osprey Overhang
...
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Alexey - Rob is dead on with his info. You may get a red in off the chains, I can't remember exactly. Then nothing but second and first knuckle locks the whole way. Totally solid locks. I'd also like to add that this is an excellent entry climb to break into .11c fingers for the down canyon climbs. So just get on this one.
When you see that straight line on a Donald Ried topo with "5.11c fingers" next to it, you know it is going to be good! With that said, I normally don't tape up for Yosemite, but for this one I do tape a few fingers. Its rougher than Butterballs but smoother than say, the top section of Mirage. Dec 11, 2009
[Hide Comment] Vastly easier than Butterballs, if that helps yer psyche any.

[unless you have big swollen kielbasas sprouting from your palms] Dec 17, 2009
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] "Vastly easier than Butterballs"-agree with this Rob .
Just climbed it day ago, thanks Rob and Marc to encouraging downrate of the route -otherwise I would not jump on it.
I've never onsite in the Valley anything harder than 10d before , so I was very surprise by myself when I reached anchors of this short ( ~35 feet) second pitch and said to my wife - I am 11c climber, ha ha.
Not very long, since Vinita climbed it quickly and said - "it is about same or little bit easier than Sherry crack". So she downgraded it to 10c with her very small fingers, but for my average hands- 11a/b?
I used 3 green aliens, 2 yellow 2 red and one green cam junior.
The first pitch is very good on this climb too. Jan 18, 2010
[Hide Comment] Well shit, it sounds like 5.9 + now... Jan 24, 2010
[Hide Comment] One can rapel from the top of the second pitch to the ground with a 70m. Just did it a day ago. Apr 6, 2014
BFK
San Francisco
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Best finger crack I've been on,... even though it's only 40'. Apr 9, 2014
[Hide Comment] I taped up all of my fingers for this pitch, just for size. Even with a nice tape job I was still getting sinker locks. Pinky felt like 10d to me, it might be 11a for some one with big fingers. Butterballs is a grade harder for sure. Apr 12, 2014
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A great route, classic, especially if linking into one pitch. Definitely some sharp locks.

Thought it was easier than the Rostrum's crux pitch, and similar in difficulty to Hardd's second pitch. Not even in the same conversation as Butterballs for me. Nov 29, 2016
[Hide Comment] Pretty sure it was originally called "Great Moments In Baseball", then Chapman was calling it "Pinky Paralysis" and that is what everyone has called it since. My recall is not so great, could have been Bachar that re-named it, but I think he was a H.S. baseball star? Anyone have a better memory than I? Jan 18, 2017
Jake Ramsey
Yosemite, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is easily 5.10d. It is on par with Finger Lickin’, Five and Dime, The Theif, Cramming and Ten Years After. It is still a great climb though. Apr 15, 2018