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Routes in 6 - Finger Lickin' Area

Finger Lickin' T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Health Insurance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Profile T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jaw Bone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora's Box T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Petty Larceny T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pinky Paralysis T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
R and R T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snatch Power T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, Ken Yager, Grant Hiskes, 1984
Page Views: 846 total, 9/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Dec 1, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

An excellent crack for those just breaking in to the grade. Sometimes it is wet at the bottom, and partially sand filled higher up. Don't let this stop you. Pull through the crux at the bottom. Finger lock and jam your way to the top, then rappel from slings around a bush or walk off to the right.

Location

This is the left of three cracks at the bottom of the Finger Lickin' area. The first to be reached on the approach trail.

Protection

Single set of gear.

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
This route was filled with leaves and sand. It would be nice if it cleaned up. Oct 11, 2017
Sheets
Livermore, CA
 
Sheets   Livermore, CA
 
Small nuts protect the beginning well. Placing a nut in the start of the finger crack was kinda a reach (I'm 5'9) but I never thought the route unsafe. Fun route once you get past all the dirt. May 4, 2015
benkraft Kraft
San Francisco, California
benkraft Kraft   San Francisco, California
tr'd because of the comments here, but at 5'10" i could reach a good red or yellow c3 in the pin scar undercling while standing on solid feet out left. Feb 17, 2015
BFK
San Francisco
  5.11b
BFK   San Francisco
  5.11b
Enjoyable route with a bouldery start finishing with some great casual jamming. If you're tall you can place some small pieces at the base of the crack while still in the left crack to protect the crux moves. Apr 9, 2014
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
I would say this is NOT a great climb if your breaking into the grade. Deck potential on the hardest moves down low is not a good combination for a budding .11 leader. May 10, 2012
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
A lead would be exciting for sure. I think a crash pad would be a smart call... Jan 10, 2012
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
I decked off this in '07 when a foot chip busted and my gear ripped a flake on the right (uninjured, thankfully). No temptations to stick gear behind that flake anymore, just bust the crux right off the ground and the locks open up to decent fingers at about 15'. Jan 18, 2010