Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Byron Shumpert
Page Views: 2,095 total · 18/month
Shared By: Andrew R on Dec 1, 2009 with improvements by Byron Shumpert
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Access Issue: Read the BLM Sad Boulders page before you visit. Details

Description

Classic moves: start with your ass way down in the dirt, left hand absurdly low on the arete and right on a good sidepull or undercling. Power out the steep overhang with positive flakes, underclings, kneebars, toehooks, and brute force to slopey-ish holds at the lip, then find the good flake out left to top out easily. This would for sure get four stars except for the extreme dab potential on the rock a few inches below your rear. And it'll probably feel easy at the grade if you do a lot of pullups.

Location

On the left side of the Death Star Cave, climb from a sit, straight up through the awesome undercling feature.

Protection

Pads and spotter, or ditch the pads to give yourself a few inches, falling on the rock probably wouldn't hurt THAT bad...

Photos

C Miller   CA  
Anti-Hero on youtube -

youtube.com/watch?v=AjfW76P… Dec 1, 2009
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
HeatherB-Radley
Augsburg, Germany
 
HeatherB-Radley   Augsburg, Germany
 
Amazing movement.... couple different ways to do the moves both before and after pulling the lip. Jun 11, 2010
First move kind of ruins it for me. Otherwise it's a great problem. Dec 22, 2011
cbtacy
  V4
cbtacy  
  V4
A bit of a grovel, but fun climbing.

Lots of ways to do the lip encounter - I always thought it was easier to come at it from the right. Aug 11, 2013
pdxuller
  V5+
pdxuller  
  V5+
Fantastic. One of the most Hueco-esque problems in Bishop. Mar 31, 2014
Just want to clarify where the proper start to Anti Hero is. The original start is on the two undercling pockets which enables you to go up with left hand to the two finger pocket and finish as you normally would. Starting way down low and to the left is awkward, uncomfortable and just plain unnecessary for this problem. Jan 11, 2016
The original and much preferred start. If you’re confused just think all points in the cave at all times. I’m 6 feet with long legs and it doesn’t feel squishy to me.

youtu.be/dAW1uDL9BJM Oct 26, 2018