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East Face

5.11, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jay Smith, Mark Hesse, May 1995.
Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Castle Valley > Rectory
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a good route tucked out of sight on the far northern edge of the east face of the Rectory. The anchors are not visible from the ground. Begin in steep splitter fingers with feet, changing corners a couple times to gain an alcove with steep corner climbing above leading to the first anchor. 5.11, 130 ft. Pitch 2 features hard, awkward, and interesting 5.11 thin corners to another Metolius rappel anchor. It is possible but not recommended to improvise a third pitch to the summit.

Location

Walk a couple hundred feet left of Bad Habit. Once you find yourself under the Northeast corner of the Rectory look for a steep, broken finger crack.

Protection

Triple set of fingers to thin hands with doubles to #3 camalot.