Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Pitch 1: Matt Lisenby, Pitch 2: Mason Earle (Equiped by Matt Lisenby)
Page Views: 7,158 total · 44/month
Shared By: Chris Kalous on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: CLOSED FOR RAPTORS Details

Description

Two pitch route way left on the dark side of the wall. Face climb into tips splitter 5.12. Then an arching second pitch 5.13+. Perhaps Indian Creek's hardest established line.

The first pitch is a good route in its own right. The gear placed before stepping into the splitter seems a little hollow, but you will get a good stance after stepping in to place a more inspiring cam before the burl begins. 30m.

Mason Earle on the 2nd pitch "The marathon pitch culminates with a wicked left-leaning, narrowing finger splitter. The featureless left wall further increases the desperate nature of the climb, forcing you to smear your left foot above your waist." 40m

Location

Way left on 2nd Meat on the shady side past most of the routes in the book. This route splits the north side of a pillar and receives virtually no sun. Vague plaque.

Protection

For the first pitch: thin fingers to red camalots.

Mason Earle: "For the second pitch, I used 4 red camalots, 7 green, 2purple, 2grey, 1 blue." Although a more pedestrian rack would include some slightly larger cams for the start.

Photos