For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 2nd Meat Wall

At Your Cervix T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bacon in the Sun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boss Hog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butcher's Dog T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camping Under the Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cube Steaks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
End Of The Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evening Ecstacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Extra Lean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Home Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gouge On It T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Pork Sundae T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Humble Pie T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Low Cholesterol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Cows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Hucker, (AKA:Idaho Flake) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Meat Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Your Maker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat ya later T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Meating Jesus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mouse Meat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja Bedwetter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pastafarian, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pleased To Meat You T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Potato, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samarai Loving T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sesh One Cooking T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell the Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soylent Green T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swedish meat balls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweet Meats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Switch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Bones Tonight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tofu Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Sirloin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Timer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Timer II T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown long corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pitch 1: Matt Lisenby, Pitch 2: Mason Earle (Equiped by Matt Lisenby)
Page Views: 4,847 total · 46/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Two pitch route way left on the dark side of the wall. Face climb into tips splitter 5.12. Then an arching second pitch 5.13+. Perhaps Indian Creek's hardest established line.

The first pitch is a good route in its own right. The gear placed before stepping into the splitter seems a little hollow, but you will get a good stance after stepping in to place a more inspiring cam before the burl begins. 30m.

Mason Earle on the 2nd pitch "The marathon pitch culminates with a wicked left-leaning, narrowing finger splitter. The featureless left wall further increases the desperate nature of the climb, forcing you to smear your left foot above your waist." 40m

Location [Suggest Change]

Way left on 2nd Meat on the shady side past most of the routes in the book. This route splits the north side of a pillar and receives virtually no sun. Vague plaque.

Protection [Suggest Change]

For the first pitch: thin fingers to red camalots.

Mason Earle: "For the second pitch, I used 4 red camalots, 7 green, 2purple, 2grey, 1 blue." Although a more pedestrian rack would include some slightly larger cams for the start.

Photos

Matt Lisenby
  5.13
Matt Lisenby  
  5.13
Here's the scoop on Hot Pork:
I put it up about 5 years ago, free climbing the first pitch at 5.12. The second pitch will go free somewhere in the 5.13 range. The first pitch takes sizes from #0 TCU's to 2.5 inches gradually changing from tips to tight hands at the top over about 70 feet. The second pitch goes in a range of sizes(max size fists) for about 90 feet, then tapers from 1.25" to tips over about 40 feet. It is slightly offset, leans way left and is dead vertical to slightly overhanging. All of the moves are there, but I haven't linked them yet(Only tried once and not actively working it at this time). Linking the two as one long pitch seems a bit contrived due to the hands free rest at the first belay ledge(unless you just enjoy rope drag). If you like the looks of this route you should give the radioactive porksickle a go off of Potash Road-> long canyon: listed in the "physics department" on this site. mountainproject.com/v/utah/… Dec 2, 2009
chris Kalous  
 
Thanks, Matt. Should have known it was yours! I will let you know if I check it out this spring. Dec 17, 2009
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
After a few days of work this spring, I was able to send the second pitch of this line. The first pitch was 30m long. The second pitch is 40m and felt like hard 5.13. For the second pitch, i used 4 red camalots, 7 green, 2purple, 2grey, 1 blue. This is a truly awesome pitch. Apr 21, 2011
slim    
nice work, that is a glorious looking line. Apr 21, 2011
AL .
UT
AL .   UT
Has anybody ever done this thing as a continuous 70 meter pitch? Seems like it would be rad, also seems like it could be suicide for your fingers by the end.... Mar 10, 2017

More About Hot Pork Sundae

Printer-Friendly