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5.11a, Sport, 40 ft,
Avg: 2.4 from 44 votes
FA: Todd Goss
Utah > Saint George > Black Rocks > Sunny Side
Closed March 15 through June 30
is in the
Red Cliffs Desert Reserve
. No climbing is allowed at
from March 15 through June 30 in order to provide an undisturbed environment for
In addition, all pets in the Reserve
be kept on a leash at all times.
Crimpy beginning to a steep finish.
Sunny-side, 40' to the right of Black Hole Sun.
4 bolts, plus anchors.
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Lisa Pritchett leading Gravitational Attraction
Smooth sailing... (Iphone 4)
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Good climb. Very bouldery start followed by smooth sailing.
Jan 7, 2010
i honestly dont think this is an 11.. did a hold break off?
Dec 31, 2012
It's only 5.11 if you crank the direct start. It is much easier traversing in from the side.
Jun 5, 2013
Saint George, UT
Crimpy direct start. The start moves may qualify as 5.11 if encountered higher up on a long route. Pulling the crimps right off the ground with fresh arms make it feel more like 5.10+. The rest of the climb is a formality.
Jan 20, 2014
I think the grade controversy is due to the height dependent finish. Some can reach the chains from a big hold kind low. Some have to reach out right and gain the chains via some slopers. My guess is below 5' 6" this is an 11 and above that height this is a 10.
Feb 22, 2016