Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,066 total · 19/month
Shared By: ziggy on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Classic! All the way around the corner and into the Sun from Xiaolin Wonder Palm, or simply walk through the cave from the warm up problems and look to your left. Start on a large detached block and move your right hand up to a good side pull. Re-situate your feet and make a hard move up to a small crimp around to the left (crux SDS). Starting from the crimp and side pull goes at V5. Make a powerful move up to the intermediate crimp or go all the way to the jug, make a bizarre mantle move (being short or very flexible hips is helpful) and top out.

Location

Other side of the cave, obvious chalked up detached block (same start as Rotator Cuff).

Protection

Good Landing, Spotters!

Photos

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Josh Levell
Denver, CO
  V6
Josh Levell   Denver, CO
  V6
The guidebook puts the standstart at a V6, but, as the neighboring "Rotator Cuff" feels harder, I can understand the V5 rating here. Jan 23, 2017
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V6-7
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V6-7
I sent "Black Slab Left" and "Rotator Cuff" (sit) on the same day as this - "Green Knob" felt the hardest. Guidebook has it right - stand is V6 and sit is V7. No need to sandbag this one... Apr 14, 2018
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V6-7
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V6-7
Video I put up:

youtube.com/watch?v=tTEFlA7… Jul 26, 2018