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Routes in Heart of Marg's Draw.

Chossology T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Easy Rider T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fisher King, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 380 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bloom/Hren/Suess
Page Views: 2,119 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mike on Nov 29, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

A wonderful route up an aesthetic crack on a steep tower. Every pitch is different. Every pitch is steep. The second pitch alone is worth the price of admission. Requires all types of climbing from fingers to squeeze chimney to thin face.

Pro is pitch specific, and it is often possible to leave un-needed gear for the follower if one is so inclined.

P1: A long pitch, 150' or more. A few thin face moves lead past a bolt to a stance. Pass some so-so rock to good rock and a great crack, then up past some bolted face moves to a large ledge and bolted belay. Gear: Nuts, all cams up to #3 camalot, plus 1 #4.

P2: Up and left from the belay to an awesome, overhanging splitter crack. Ascend this for 50' or so to the lip, then up a steep, wide crack for another 50' or so to a semi stance. Belay off a #4 & #5. Gear: .75, all #1 thru #4, plus one #5.

P3: Continue up the wide crack to a nice ledge near the top with a bolted belay. Occasional gear from .5 thru #4, but most of pro is the 5's & 6's.

P4: A short pitch. Leave the big gear here, and traverse up & left to a splitter off-fingers to thin hands crack. Ascend this, then pass a small roof on the left to easy ground to top.

Location

About half-way up the steep drainage on the left. Ascends the obvious steep crack system on the south face of the tower.

Protection

1 set of nuts, 1-2 ea .3 & .4 camalots, 2-3 ea .5 thru #3, 3 #4, 2#5, & 2#6 camalots.

Rap off slung tree with 1 rope to the rap station atop P3. Then 2 rope rap to top of P1. It is recommended to back-clip on rappel for the last steep section to stay in close the wall. One more 2 rope rap gets you back to the base.
Ryan Z
  5.11
Ryan Z  
  5.11
Fantastic climb! very very fun. P1 is crux and has all the right kinds of spice and every type of climbing you can think of, not to mention it is 180ft long! (Leave tag line here for the rappel. All the other raps are easy with (1) 60m) footholds appear at all the right times .11b'ish, but sustained and exciting. P2 beautiful overhung hands 10/10+ to an unbelievable 5.10, #5, OW. THIS PITCH ALSO HAS BOLTED BELAY, so feel free to ditch a #4 you would have needed for an anchor. P3 is great #6 OW climbing with tons of face holds to a bolted belay, 5.10. This is one of the better routes in Sedona if you are up for the grade. The run-outs have sparse but good gear and are on great rock. DO NOT FORGET TO BRING NUTS! or your gonna to have a bad time. Dec 13, 2013