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Routes in Parking Lot

Chicken Bone T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Boy 5.11 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilot Error aka Right Chicken Bone S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Thin to Win S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vegomatic T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,379 total, 24/month
Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Nov 29, 2009 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Start on a fun right facing flake, then move up to a small roof and then to a ledge. Continue up slightly steeper climbing to the top.

This is now a 10 bolt sport route.

Location

10 feet to the right of Chicken bone where there is a large right facing flake.

Protection

10 bolts and chains at the top.

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.7
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.7
Brendan,

A 70 m is more than enough. In fact, a 60 m works fine, with stretch. Nov 9, 2016
Brendan Lutz
Aberdeen, NC
Brendan Lutz   Aberdeen, NC
Could anyone tell me what the recommended rope length for this route is? I have a 70m, but when you add rope drag a 100ft route may be on the upper limits of my rope. If the bolts don't wander too much, hypothetically it should be okay.

Any insight?

Thanks! Nov 7, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.7
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.7
This climb as well as the climb next to it are uniquely long climbs for pilot, but are well worth lugging a long rope around.

If you are top-roping it is less strenuous to use the Jomeokee trail around the little pinnacle to go between the anchors/ground. Saves a lot of stairs and a little travel time. May 31, 2015
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.8-
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.8-
This is now a 10 bolt sport route. Jun 3, 2013
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
 
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
 
Thanks for the comments guys. Recently in Erica's research for the new Piedmont Guidebook which includes Pilot, we uncovered some calling this route Pilot Error. To have disctinct naming, she is probably going to use Pilot Error as the name of this route in the new guidebook unless we receive conflicting information.

I still feel like the Kelly guide shows the right facing crack as Chicken Bone, it also doesn't list the route in the middle and it seems even before Jeff's guide, that middle route is the one that most people called Chicken Bone. Who's to say that the Kelly Guide is 100% correct. The topo could easily have been incorrectly drawn for this route.

If anyone has any additional information about this, we welcome the discussion as we are having a hard time finding historic information for the area.

Thanks!

Steve Lineberry Sep 1, 2011
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
When Jeff Dillon was writing the draft for the pocket guide to Pilot Mtn., the left one of two on that face was commonly called 'Chicken Bone'. Few people were doing the one to the right, partly because the anchor bolt heads look rusty, and there was no commonly used name for it. As for others, Jeff listed it as 'Unnamed'. Soon after the first edition was available through the Carolina Climbers Coalition website, Steve Lineberry objected by comment there to the naming, based on the map and description in the Kelley guide chapter for one route there.

In the second edition of the pocket guide, Jeff complied with Steve's argument and swapped the listings. Because both editions are in use, there is still some confusion. To solve that, at ClimbPilotNC.us they are listed as 'Chicken Bone Left' and 'Chicken Bone Right', following a re-naming in Jeff's second edition of a 'Pee Break Left' to name 'Pee Break Right' for anchors that were not in the Kelley chapter. Since then, the Park superintendent has adopted the second edition of Jeff's pocket guide as the "preferred" reference for routes at Pilot.

LL Aug 31, 2011