Avg: 3.9 from 40
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On the steep side of the boulder, Dancing Outlaw goes up the left side of the rib using a couple of good slopers, crimps, and an incut. Muscle your way into the powerful undercling and up to the lip. Move left on a couple of poor slopers to the arete, and top out just left of the arete.
One word of caution: on the hueco undercling, don't crank on the lip of the hueco; it flexes a lot and there are other spots that are just as good.
In many ways this is THE classic climb at the Brickyard - is there a move on this problem that isn't awesome?
If you're facing to the ocean, this problem is on the right half of the Brickyard on the north side of a boulder. It is just to the left of Smooth Criminal.
Pads and a spotter on the rock below the problem.
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Santa Barbara, Ca
Santa Barbara, Ca
Carpinteria, CA
I'm sure Debra is worse now with the broken crimp, but I thought it was on the mellower side of V8 prior to breakage. Dancing Outlaw has always been a good example of SB V8 in my opinion. May 17, 2012
Santa Barbara, Ca
As far as Grotesque Old Woman, since the start hold broke many years ago, it's harder than it was, but I still don't think it's as hard as Dancing Outlaw.
And about Cradlerock Style, yeah I've done it (it's my problem) and yeah it's hard. Last time I checked, unless your last name is Ondra, V7 is hard. But you're frigging crazy if you think that it's as hard as the Outlaw!
And get rid of that Edwards guide and replace it with a proper guidebook! May 18, 2012
Santa Barbara, Ca
I was also not trying to say V7 is not a hard grade in regard to Cradlerock Style. I was thinking that the first move off the crimp rail seemed like one of the harder single moves I had done at the yard. I felt like it was a pure strength move (bad beta maybe?) that is harder than v7. After that it is much easier. Just my thoughts.
I will get your guide...someday haha.
Anyways thanks for the great response. May 18, 2012
Regardless of grade (the least interesting part), the climb is downright classic SB. My biggest bouldering achievement to date, and I say that proudly. I'll sure as hell get out there and do it again to confirm that grade so we can sleep easy ;)
And cheers to Bob, without whom these sends wouldn't have been possible. May 26, 2012
I don't think anyone here is talking badly about dancing outlaw, or questioning it being V8 or not, but just trying to say that it sure does feel quite easy on a cold day when you're not sweating off those slopers, and that grotesque old woman should be bumped up to v8.. It's all subjective guys, let's just be happy there are some hard climbs in SB to do ;) May 26, 2012
All in all, I'm back at my same old sentiment; regardless of the grade, Dancing Outlaw ROCKS! And now I wanna try Super Double Buzz with a direct exit (straight up at big slope) as it seems like a good, straight line from the bottom and is comprised of nearly 100% slopes. Sweet!
P.S. Mr. Witty is hard :)
Edit:
The undercling recently broke on this one. I guess the positive side is that the undercling seems to be in a solid stable condition now. But instead of the nice rounded edge, it's much sharper now. Haven't reclimbed it yet, so can't say if it changes much (probably just sharper), but I'll get on it soon and see how it feels... Jul 18, 2012
Edmonton, AB
Edmonton, AB
Edmonton, AB
CA
Santa Barbara, CA
Santa Barbara, CA
The worst part? Lying next to the broken hold on the ground was a broken jug from ZAG/Purgatory. I sure hope the person who broke the first didn't keep climbing only to break the second... Feb 21, 2021
Seattle, WA