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Highway to Hell

WI4, Ice, 800 ft (242 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Silverton > Eureka

Description

Highway to Hell (AKA Highway 66 and Highway 666) is located about 500 feet to the right of Stairway to Heaven. It is a great line that is a little steeper than Stairway to Heaven but not quite as sustained. This is because there is more snow to wallow through between the various steps of ice. However, it is a great outing, and is about the same length as Stairway to Heaven (260 meters or so).

Begin by approaching as for Stairway to Heaven, which for me is best accomplished by continuing up the road (San Juan Co 2) past the end of where it is normally plowed in mid-winter until you are at a point that is slightly upstream or past Stairway to Heaven. This would also be a good ways past the Outward Bound facility, which will be downhill on your right as you pass it. Find a place where you can hike just a short ways downhill to cross the stream bed and then start hiking uphill while trending back down the valley, towards Stairway to Heaven. Pass beneath Stairway to Heaven and continue for about 500 feet or just shy of 200 meters until you are at the base of a large gully system. Hike up the gully until you reach the beginning of the ice. Highway to Hell can easily be spotted from the road as you are hiking in.

The first part of climb consists of climbing discontinuous ice steps, which are pretty short and may even be covered by snow depending on how much there is. Upon reaching the point where the gully splits, go to the right. The ice to the left is a route called Road to Nowhere. To the right is the first big pitch for Highway to Hell.

The first pitch is about 50 meters in length. If you want to split it into 2 pitches, a perch can be found about halfway up on the right side. This will keep the belayer from getting bombed while the leader finishes out the pitch.

Continue to slog up the snow for just a short ways until you reach another piece of steep ice. The second pitch is about 30 meters in length. At the top will be a short piece of ice which can be continued up to a small tree on your left. Or you can just start rapping from here. Above this point, there is more ice to be climbed, but it is lowered angled and rolling in nature, involving more snow groveling.

Rappel the route for a descent. Two ropes will be handy, but it can be rappelled with a single 60 meter rope if you make an intermediate anchor in the first pitch. Plan on a little down climbing for the ice steps at the bottom of the climb.

Protection

A rack of screws should be all you will need.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topping out first pitch, right side-Route 66.
[Hide Photo] Topping out first pitch, right side-Route 66.
Greg Rossell leading the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Greg Rossell leading the first pitch.
Fun pitch on Highway to Hell.
[Hide Photo] Fun pitch on Highway to Hell.
Only ice visible January 2017. In obvious avy path too.
[Hide Photo] Only ice visible January 2017. In obvious avy path too.
The only pitch visible center frame. Taken January 2017. If there was more ice above, it was buried in snow. Stairway to Heaven is on the left.
[Hide Photo] The only pitch visible center frame. Taken January 2017. If there was more ice above, it was buried in snow. Stairway to Heaven is on the left.
From the road, just below where you would hike down to the steambed on the approach.
[Hide Photo] From the road, just below where you would hike down to the steambed on the approach.
A little more of a close-up of the route, showing the first big ice pitch. Note where Highway to Nowhere begins on the left at the split in the gully.
[Hide Photo] A little more of a close-up of the route, showing the first big ice pitch. Note where Highway to Nowhere begins on the left at the split in the gully.
Eureka Mt. adds a nice backdrop to the outing.
[Hide Photo] Eureka Mt. adds a nice backdrop to the outing.
4/9/21. In good shape when Stairway to Heaven was sun bleached and collapsed.
[Hide Photo] 4/9/21. In good shape when Stairway to Heaven was sun bleached and collapsed.
Mia racing the sun as darkness creeps behind. Follow the light, children of God, and overcome your demons that follow close behind or you'll be nothing more than a mere delinquent like the rest of the zombies that walk amongst us.
[Hide Photo] Mia racing the sun as darkness creeps behind. Follow the light, children of God, and overcome your demons that follow close behind or you'll be nothing more than a mere delinquent like the rest of…
Mia Neil topping out on OG tools; however, she lost the race with darkness. God bless her soul. She didn't die or anything (figure I should make that clear). She just got swallowed by the metaphorical darkness I alluded to in another photo on this page.
[Hide Photo] Mia Neil topping out on OG tools; however, she lost the race with darkness. God bless her soul. She didn't die or anything (figure I should make that clear). She just got swallowed by the metaphori…
Pitch 1 center frame in the larger gully.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 center frame in the larger gully.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jaaron Mankins
Durango, CO
  WI4
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the V-threads, they were everywhere! Great route in great shape. We always call this Route 66, but maybe H2H is a better alternative. Two 60m ropes make rapping each long pitch a breeze. Nov 29, 2009
[Hide Comment] You fail to mention that this route is under extreme avalanche hazard with frequent slides coming down and burying the lower ice steps. Nov 26, 2014
mike d
Montrose, CO
  WI4
[Hide Comment] The main pitch has 60 or 70m of ice, and it's another 80+ feet to the tree (not confidence inspiring) below the upper pitch. The descent currently requires at least one v-thread at the top of the main pitch. Seems like a good candidate for a few well-placed bolts to tidy up the descent and avoid v-thread garbage. Jan 20, 2021