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Simian Sex

5.10d, Trad, 120 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: Tucker Tech and Ray Olsen - April 1990
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > El Cap Picnic Area > Loggerhead Buttress
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a hard finger crack with a bolt protected crux. The climbing is sustained and demands your attention all the way to the two bolt anchor. High quality granite, a must do for the .10d lovers!

Location

Just uphill from the water groove start of the Loggerhead Ledge Route. The route is slightly right facing.

Protection

Doubles of small gear, nothing big, and one quick draw.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] the crux is more like face climb [ layback/high-step ].
Clipping bolt from stance was very reachy for me [5.7'], but you can place yellow alien instead.
Well protected route - it does not look so from below. Take micro- nuts and small gear. Biggest you need #2 cam
70 m rope not reach the ground- down climbed ~5 feet May 17, 2010
vincent L.
Redwood City
[Hide Comment] Our 70m reached with a few feet to spare . Oct 30, 2011