Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||Stewart and Ian Spencer-Green|
|Page Views:||545 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Phil Lauffen on Nov 26, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFrom the small terrace at the far left end of the wall, clamber straight up the questionable rock to the first bolt. Clip a longer quickdraw or sling to this to reduce drag.
From here, conduct the mental crux of this route by stepping up and left to the large crack and either strenuously clip the 2nd bolt before getting established in the crack or pull some hairy moves and get solidly seated in the crack and then clip the bolt.
Look down and notice the sudden appearance of 100 feet of exposure directly below you. Cry a little, like me, if you feel the need.
Jam up the awesome crack and clip the third bolt before conducting spicy moves out a small roof to get the fourth bolt. Beware the large horn sticking out. I stepped on it but cannot guarantee that it will hold a lot of weight and it is poised directly above your belayer tethered into the anchor on the terrace below. From here, avoid barndooring out into the void and reach up off sidepulls to the less-than-positive top and clip.
Now you can feel safe.
This route would be completely classic if only there was less bird poo/feathers in the crack, but this is rock climbing. If you don't like the outdoors, go to a gym.