Type: Boulder, Alpine, 12 ft (4 m)
FA: James O'Conner, 2009
Page Views: 1,178 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chip Phillips on Nov 25, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US. Details

Description

Useless Tools begins from a sit start that ups the ante for the moderate problem Broken Arrow. Begin from a sds on high sloping crimps, pull your butt off the ground and campus up to a left hand edge. Do not cheat by using a dynamic butt start. Now that the real difficulties are over, enjoy surfing right across really good holds and finish as for Broken Arrow.

Since it's really an awkward 1-move wonder into a really nice V3, I've given it only 1 star. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with playing on this problem, it's just "OK" as far as V9s go.

Location

About 20 feet left of Seurat on the same boulder, Useless Tools is the sit start to Broken Arrow.

Protection

An Organic pad or two.

Photos