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Routes in Bad Bananas

Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When You’re Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 61 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

“Ongoing Decay” might be a better name for this route. It’s actually pretty fun with good, pumpy, desperate moves, but the choss just rains from it.

A surprisingly difficult start on thin holds with a concentration-focusing 3rd clip. Thereafter, the overhanging pumpiness starts with big moves from tiny holds, tiny-to-nonexistent feet, strenuous body positioning, and a few welcome jugs to see you through.

From the penultimate bolt onward the needle on the choss-o-meter pegs and the climbing becomes a bit nerve-wracking as you wonder whether everything you touch is going to fall off.

Location [Suggest Change]

Right of the “cave”; first bolted line on the right, ignoring Oscar the Grouch which is quite a bit farther right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 bolts, chain anchors.

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Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Of the three 5.11d lines to the right of the cave (Rainbird, When You’re Feeling Sinister, and this) I thought this was by far the most difficult. Nov 25, 2009
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
Belayers should wear a helmut on this choss fest. I just about got my head taken off when a large rock came off. Missed me by 4 feet and my helmut is at Petzl being fixed! This route looked tough with some real twister movement. And one other thing, you do get a big rest on it after the real desperate part... Nov 25, 2009

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