Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 72 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

“Ongoing Decay” might be a better name for this route. It’s actually pretty fun with good, pumpy, desperate moves, but the choss just rains from it.

A surprisingly difficult start on thin holds with a concentration-focusing 3rd clip. Thereafter, the overhanging pumpiness starts with big moves from tiny holds, tiny-to-nonexistent feet, strenuous body positioning, and a few welcome jugs to see you through.

From the penultimate bolt onward the needle on the choss-o-meter pegs and the climbing becomes a bit nerve-wracking as you wonder whether everything you touch is going to fall off.

Location

Right of the “cave”; first bolted line on the right, ignoring Oscar the Grouch which is quite a bit farther right.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

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Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.11d
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.11d
Of the three 5.11d lines to the right of the cave (Rainbird, When You’re Feeling Sinister, and this) I thought this was by far the most difficult. Nov 25, 2009
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
Belayers should wear a helmut on this choss fest. I just about got my head taken off when a large rock came off. Missed me by 4 feet and my helmut is at Petzl being fixed! This route looked tough with some real twister movement. And one other thing, you do get a big rest on it after the real desperate part... Nov 25, 2009