Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Lauschey, Monty Reagan
Page Views: 845 total · 7/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Nov 25, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

One of the finest edge and face climbs at the Bald. Rivals Snap, Crackle, Pop's P3 for fun steep face climbing. You will surely be in edgestacy after bagging this one.

Start same as Guppies in the Mist. Difficult bulge start with no pro leads to unprotected moderate slab climbing. Follow undercling flake feature with good feet to the first piece of gear below bolt. Move up through rails to the first bolt and start the bulge crux. Thin sustained edges through the bulge protected by gear. Double up on the TCU placement after the #4 solution hole for another runout to the small piece below the second bolt in a funky flake feature. Clip the second bolt and move right through easy terrain to the Lakeview Rap bolts.

Location

30' left of the Lakeview start.

Protection

Draws, single rack, mandatory #4 camalot or old style #3.5 camalot.

Photos

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chummer
  5.10+ PG13
chummer  
  5.10+ PG13
Perhaps the risk factor is a bit overblown. I'd suggest PG. The start isn't to bad and you get great gear before the bolt. Then good gear after. It runs a bit from the middway point but its above great gear and the climbing is straightforward and intuitive.

This is a fantastic pitch worthy of traffic. If you're solid on 5.10 get on it.

Triple on Blue TCU. double yellow tcu. At least one #4, but maybe two. Jan 13, 2019
What a nice route! I thought there was a bit of a runout after transitioning from the face to the slab.... Apr 2, 2019