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Routes in Moses Springs Wall

Heat Seeking Moisture Missle S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 606 total · 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 24, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route has difficult moves surmounting each of the three bulges that it passes through in the lower half. The upper face is run-out but quite a bit easier than down low. Each of the bulges has reachy moves and if you are shorter than about 5' 6" you may not like this route much.

Scamper up into the first scoop and clip the first bolt. Move up and to the right to the second bolt, after clipping this you may want to un-clip the first to limit rope drag. Mantle over the first bulge and stand up below the second. Pull over the second after clipping another bolt on mostly good holds. Spend some time figuring out what to do at the third and crux bulge with difficult moves along the lip. Wander up the face above clipping 2 more bolts along the way. Finish up along a crumbling flake and at anchors right at the rim.

Location

As you walk along the Moses Springs trail towards the Monolith, just after passing below the low white overhang the trail will jog to the left away from the wall to avoid a large boulder. Heat Seeking Moisture Missile starts by stemming up between this boulder and the wall. It climbs the wide black streak up the wall through 3 bulges.

Protection

6 bolts to a bolted anchor. The guide book says nuts and TCU's up high, but I could not find anything that would be worth placing. If you can you may want to reach back and un-clip the first bolt after clipping the second as it is pretty far to the left of the rest of the bolts.

Photos

Max Rausch
Monterey, CA
Max Rausch   Monterey, CA
Had always seen this line on my way to monolith and never tried it until yesterday. Book rates it 10d, which may feel hard. Pulling over the 3rd, (and most overhung) bulge feels like an 11+ move. Then if you can fight the pump and pull out onto the face, the run out is easy. I brought some gear, but couldn't find any placement options until like 7 feet below the anchors which didn't make much of a difference anyways. All in all it's a fantastic line with some really cool moves on it. Oct 17, 2015

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