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Charles' Split
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Back Wall
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A-Frame Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aid line (aka:Stoney crack) 5.10. TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beehive Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Black's Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charles' Split TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dart Lady TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Like A Herd Of Turtles V4-5 6B+ |
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Potholes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Potholes Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Potholes Traverse V1 5 |
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Vicious TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Walk the Plank TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wrath of Kahan, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | David Potter Nov 15 2009 |
| Page Views: | 2,714 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Tozankyaku on Nov 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
Details
Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
Just to the right of Potholes Crack on the Back Wall. Staying right of the crack on the face all the way up You start out on crimps and two backsteps five feet right of the crack, then climb up and left. . Gotta hook the tip of your thumb to step onto some crimps, then you move into the crux in which all of your weight is on just your left toe and your right hand with your right foot flagging so you're sideways (looks cool). After the crux you're in a rest position doing the splits (looks cool), then it's an under cling and two crimps to get over the bulge. It takes a very creative sequence.
David was thinking of Banana Split since you have to do the splits on the route, but to mark the occasion of Charles' Tozan's move to Florida in a few weeks, he went with "Charles Split."
David was thinking of Banana Split since you have to do the splits on the route, but to mark the occasion of Charles' Tozan's move to Florida in a few weeks, he went with "Charles Split."
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