Mate, Spawn, and Die
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, 130 ft|
|FA:||Feb 2001, Jim Lawyer, Ade Miller|
|Page Views:||1,077 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Lawyer on Nov 24, 2009|
DescriptionTHE classic, hard ice route in central New York, and one of the most reliable routes in the Salmon River Amphitheater. Named for a song by the punk music band Lard; this route began the salmon-theme route names here. The route was a long-standing problem, and the scene of some remarkable falls on stubbie screws.
The ice on this route is the highest continuous ice in the Amphitheater; the ice reaches up into the shale band higher than its neighbors. It usually forms early, and due to the geometry of the shale, is more resilient to thaws. Even so, the final columns below the shale band are often poorly bonded and really steep.
Climb steep pillars to a ledge. Continue up a short, steeper section of pillars (crux) to the bottom of the left-facing corner. Clip a bolt and move up overhanging rock, then step right to a ledge above the corner. Scratch up the final overhanging wall (no protection) to turf sticks, then up to the trees.