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Routes in Checkerboard Rock
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Checkerboard Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crystal Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Icarus T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Non-Alignment T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Number 8 Beartrap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rainy Day Woman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Ziggie's Brother Hank T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ziggie's Day Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Scott Kimball and Chip Salaun 1979 |
| Page Views: | 636 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Marc Hemmes on Nov 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a wild and worthwhile climb that probably never gets done. This climb is a tight squeeze!
Climb easy chimneys to the right and uphill of Southeast Pillar's start. Look for the amazing hanging chimney above.
Rope up on a big ledge and climb into an overhanging crack to gain the chimney proper. The inside of the chimney is (Wolf's Tooth style) with small to midrange cams and nuts for pro. This is very tight squeeze through here and even skinny Michael thought is was tight. So beware.
After you extract yourself from the chimney there is a nice ledge to belay from. It's possible to rap from here or continue up P.2 of Southeast Pillar; another chimney.
Climb easy chimneys to the right and uphill of Southeast Pillar's start. Look for the amazing hanging chimney above.
Rope up on a big ledge and climb into an overhanging crack to gain the chimney proper. The inside of the chimney is (Wolf's Tooth style) with small to midrange cams and nuts for pro. This is very tight squeeze through here and even skinny Michael thought is was tight. So beware.
After you extract yourself from the chimney there is a nice ledge to belay from. It's possible to rap from here or continue up P.2 of Southeast Pillar; another chimney.
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