Type: Trad
FA: Scott Kimball and Chip Salaun 1979
Page Views: 779 total · 4/month
Shared By: Marc Hemmes on Nov 24, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a wild and worthwhile climb that probably never gets done. This climb is a tight squeeze!

Climb easy chimneys to the right and uphill of Southeast Pillar's start. Look for the amazing hanging chimney above.

Rope up on a big ledge and climb into an overhanging crack to gain the chimney proper. The inside of the chimney is (Wolf's Tooth style) with small to midrange cams and nuts for pro. This is very tight squeeze through here and even skinny Michael thought is was tight. So beware.

After you extract yourself from the chimney there is a nice ledge to belay from. It's possible to rap from here or continue up P.2 of Southeast Pillar; another chimney.

Location Suggest change

This is around to the right of the main Checkerboard face. Walk past the start of Southeast pillar and look up to your left.

Protection Suggest change

#0 TCU to #3 Camalot. If you're anything but skinny, you may want to climb the outside of the chimney and bring a few bring a few tube chocks for pro?