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The Madness and the Method

5.8-, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 26 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (03) First Pull… > Hamlet
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

Route starts with some moves around the bottom corner of an overhang and works onto a slab face with huge rests, crux involves moving off a large rest ledge and past a smooth featureless face. Finishes by moving onto a crumbly hold-less slab at the top.

Location

Start at lower right corner of the obvious roof.

Protection

TR only, two bolts with no chains at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route #10 "Moni's Money"
[Hide Photo] Route #10 "Moni's Money"
Lowering off of "The Madness and the Method" at Lower Tier of The Hamlet.
[Hide Photo] Lowering off of "The Madness and the Method" at Lower Tier of The Hamlet.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

K R
[Hide Comment] The route type says Sport, the description says TR only. Which is it? Jan 10, 2010
Owen Carver
Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] The entire lower tier of Hamlet are Top Rope only. The upper tier has better (sport) climbs, but setting up the TR's here is so fast it's worth the minimal set up time. Feb 1, 2010
[Hide Comment] The right-most of the 3 TR anchors is probably the best for this route, but I climbed it on the center anchor with no trouble. Mar 4, 2018
Nick R
Granite Falls, WA
[Hide Comment] Easy to walk up to anchors and set up some top ropes fairly quickly. We climbed one and then the last person moved the anchor over one to the right till we did all three. Nov 4, 2018
Simon Leigh
SF, CA
[Hide Comment] Some guidebooks have this as rest is silence. The start is fun, big jugs then follow the crack. The blanker slab part will challenge those not solid at the grade. Compared to the "8+" route to the left (I would say 7+ for that) this felt a grade harder (actually 8+) just for those two moves on the blank slab. Oct 14, 2019
Keith Boone
Henderson, NV
 
[Hide Comment] I found all these top ropes very boring and uneventful. I did them because my goal is to climb every route in red rocks, but these are worth skipping unless everything else is packed or if you have small kids that need to climb. Dec 10, 2020
Andy Bennett
Washington, DC
[Hide Comment] Best part of this route is you can do lots of variations straight through the wide juggy overhang between this and the next route over to climber's left (Moni's Money). All about the same grade as the climb if you do the easy variations but you could do harder variants by eliminating some holds. Apr 5, 2023