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Amber Waves of Pain
5.10a,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 92
votes
FA: Steve Lewanik, Mark Goldman 1987
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Description
From the GT ledge, start from the left side of a huge blocky pinnacle.
Description with help from Pawel: Aim towards a deeply notched overhang that is over a steep, reddish face. Start by working up through some steep face moves. Above the face, move past the first overhang (crux) to a good stance. After this, pass the next overhang by moving right, up in to the notch, over, and back left into the open book to the top.
In summary: it's a steep pumpy then thin face, and two overhangs with really good rests in between.
Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.
Location
This route was originally a variation to the third pitch of Android. To access it, go up first pitch of a nearby route, such as Andrew, Erect Direction, Three Vultures, or No Glow.
Protection
Well protected, some scary face moves off the GT ledge.
[Hide Comment] The crux is pulling over the first roof and is not trivial. Perhaps the last roof might be a 9+ at the very least. The whole pitch is intimidating all the way. I've had several capable climbers follow me, and all concurred that the old rating of 9+ is a sandbag.
Dec 11, 2009
[Hide Comment] I got spanked on this, spoiled by unsustsained gunks routes. Also could not figure out where the green cam fit at the bottom of the first hang - lobes seemed uneven. Backed it up with a funky #1. Small nut might have been better. They held a couple good falls...great route however.
May 29, 2017
[Hide Comment] Climbed this recently and there was a large-ish (bigger than a briefcase, smaller than a microwave) loose block just above a wavy vertical crack that took a .75 near the top. The block didn't look loose from below but when I grabbed the top it shifted, nearly coming off and nearly causing me to fall as I pushed to stabilize the rock. It's easy enough to avoid, but since nobody else has mentioned it I figured I'd post a heads up.
Jul 6, 2021
Avg: 3.4 from 92
votes
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Pennsburg, PA
Philadelphia
Eldorado Springs, CO
Seattle, WA
Gear beta: save two green or one green and one red c4 for the 1st overhang. I wouldn't have know how else to protect it. Jul 25, 2015
Norwich, VT
I agree, Amber Waves is awesome. Maybe not THE best but a contender! May 26, 2016
Brooklyn, NY
Kerhonkson, NY