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Routes in 8 - Sun Wall Area

First Crux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sun Wall Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sun Wall Middle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sun Wall Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Jay Smith et al, 80s
Page Views: 1,013 total, 10/month
Shared By: Aerili on Nov 20, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An excellent route composed of fairly sustained climbing requiring good footwork, jamming skills, and even some OW near the start. Good rests come every so often, however, and the route is well-protected with gear. I found some of the rock up high to be a little dirty and exfoliating. Crux is half-way to the top and airy/overhanging.

Location

Sits between Sun Wall Right and Sun Wall Left (imagination at work).

To get off, climb left along the blocks at the top. There is a sling anchor with donated biners on a nice platform 10-15 feet above the open shuts at the top of Sun Wall Left.

Alternatively, it might be possible to downclimb west of Sun Wall (but I believe there are a couple 5th class sections).

Protection

Full rack to 3" or 4". You actually can climb it without the #4 (as I did), but I really wished I had it about 15-20 feet after the crux. Smaller gear can be had here but not as easy to pop in quickly; however, your skill and mileage may vary. A #3 can be pushed in toward the back of the OW down low.

Photos

Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
Really good hand jams except for the weird pod. The whole climb protects well in the hand size but you can use a #3/#4 in the pod to protect and step left onto a shelf outside of it. Getting back into the hand crack above wasn't hard for me (I'm 5' 11'') but it was very difficult for my partner (she is 5' 2''). The whole climb is short sustained 5.10b sections with good rests in between all the way up. This is obvious from the ground. Oct 30, 2015
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Nice route. Mostly thin hands and hands with a short but awkward wide pod at the beginning.

2 #4s would not go unused but aren't absolutely necessary. I'd bring at least 1. Doubles of fingers to hands is nice to have if you want to sew it up.

I'm not sure what the 'correct' way to go at the top is. After pulling the roof through the bombay section, there's one more tricky thin hands section then you get to a nice stance. I checked it out straight up from here but the rock quality was kinda crap. You can traverse 5 feet right into a more solid crack system and head to the top. This deposited me in an easy chimney. I kept going to the top and belayed from bolts above Sun Wall Right. I suppose you could also traverse climber's left at the top and belay at some bolts above Sun Wall Left.

1 60m rope makes it down from the bolts above Sun Wall Right, but just barely. Watch your ends carefully. Nov 28, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
New webbing was added to this route's anchor as of 4/24/10. May 5, 2010