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> 8 - Sun Wall Area
Sun Wall Middle
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 26
votes
Routes in 8 - Sun Wall Area
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First Crux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sun Wall Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sun Wall Middle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sun Wall Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Jay Smith et al, 80s |
| Page Views: | 2,160 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Aerili on Nov 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
An excellent route composed of fairly sustained climbing requiring good footwork, jamming skills, and even some OW near the start. Good rests come every so often, however, and the route is well-protected with gear. I found some of the rock up high to be a little dirty and exfoliating. Crux is half-way to the top and airy/overhanging.
Location
Sits between Sun Wall Right and Sun Wall Left (imagination at work).
To get off, climb left along the blocks at the top. There is a sling anchor with donated biners on a nice platform 10-15 feet above the open shuts at the top of Sun Wall Left.
Alternatively, it might be possible to downclimb west of Sun Wall (but I believe there are a couple 5th class sections).
To get off, climb left along the blocks at the top. There is a sling anchor with donated biners on a nice platform 10-15 feet above the open shuts at the top of Sun Wall Left.
Alternatively, it might be possible to downclimb west of Sun Wall (but I believe there are a couple 5th class sections).
Protection
Full rack to 3" or 4". You actually can climb it without the #4 (as I did), but I really wished I had it about 15-20 feet after the crux. Smaller gear can be had here but not as easy to pop in quickly; however, your skill and mileage may vary. A #3 can be pushed in toward the back of the OW down low.
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