Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 770 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris S on Nov 19, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The North Couloir is very visible on maps. Steep snow and AI2+, or a great ski descent in winter and early spring.


In the past, this route is accessed via Upper Lamarck Lake and Wishbone Lake. Camp at Upper Lamarck Lake if you take this route.
However, in November 2009 we scouted a possible scree-chute descent from Lamarck Col, which looked reasonable to descend to the glacier from the saddle/notch to the immediate right of the SE Slopes. This would enable a team to camp at Lamarck Col, drop into the route, climb, and then descend the SE Slopes right into camp (30-45 minutes from the summit to the Col tarn).

The North Couloir is painfully obvious to anyone with 20/20 vision.

Descent: Descend the SE Slopes, then follow the use trail/X-country back to camp at Upper Lamarck Lake


Bring a lite mixed rack - 4-6 screws, a "1/2" rack of medium stoppers (#4,6,8,10, & 12), and 3 cams. I also recommend screamers for lead screws, 5 long slings, 2 double-length slings, and one cordellette
Be forewarned, if approaching from upper Lamarck lake, wishbone lake lies in a no good, very bad talus field which separates you from the base of the climb. The approach to this point is mellow, but pick your line through the talus wisely, as the boulders are large, they move easily, and botching it anywhere would probably hurt.

To avoid the worst of the talus, I recommend skirting the left (south) side of upper Lamarck lake. There's an obvious chute that leads up the Lamarck col at the far end of the lake that is relatively easy and takes you most of the way up. Once even with ridge line on your right, traverse the talus for about half of the ridge and that'll get you around a majority of the house sized boulders (which move quite easily). From there the line through the talus should be obvious, but I wouldn't know as I was over it by this point and bailed. Oct 29, 2017