Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,049 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris S on Nov 19, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The North Couloir is very visible on maps. Steep snow and AI2+, or a great ski descent in winter and early spring.


In the past, this route is accessed via Upper Lamarck Lake and Wishbone Lake. Camp at Upper Lamarck Lake if you take this route.
However, in November 2009 we scouted a possible scree-chute descent from Lamarck Col, which looked reasonable to descend to the glacier from the saddle/notch to the immediate right of the SE Slopes. This would enable a team to camp at Lamarck Col, drop into the route, climb, and then descend the SE Slopes right into camp (30-45 minutes from the summit to the Col tarn).

The North Couloir is painfully obvious to anyone with 20/20 vision.

Descent: Descend the SE Slopes, then follow the use trail/X-country back to camp at Upper Lamarck Lake


Bring a lite mixed rack - 4-6 screws, a "1/2" rack of medium stoppers (#4,6,8,10, & 12), and 3 cams. I also recommend screamers for lead screws, 5 long slings, 2 double-length slings, and one cordellette