Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Overture

5.10a, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 49 votes
FA: P1: Patrick Purcell & Don Mellor P2-P3 Don Mellor, Bill Dodd, & Jeff Edwards
New York > Adirondacks > B: Chapel Pond… > Upper Washbowl Cliff

Description

General: Lawyer and Haas write that Overture is "a masterpiece of route finding" and no description could be better. Pitch 3 offers a mentally demanding and committing exposed line that will not disappoint. Pitch 1 can be avoided by linking the first pitch of Prelude with Pitches 2 and 3, thus maintaining the 5.8 grade.

Pitch 1 (5.10a):An unprotected boulder problem start leads to a short, shallow, and thin left-facing corner with a bolt at the end of the corner. At the top of the corner, exit working up and left to another bolt. From the second bolt, climb up on easier (5.8ish), albeit unprotected, terrain to a two-bolt anchor (shared with Prelude).

Pitch 2 (5.6): From the belay, work left to the large, low-angle, left-facing corner. Climb the corner to where it meets a short vertical step and work left to the obvious crack. An uncharacteristically hard move gains the low-angle rock above. Continue up, trending left, past another vertical step to a large ledge to build a gear anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.8): From the ledge, drop down to the climber's left (consider protecting the second here with a #00 TCU size micro-cam) and traverse over to a lone bolt on the low-angle face to the right of the arete. Make a committing move up on the arete until you can see a left-rising ramp appear. Make a highly exposed, highly committing move around the arete and onto the ramp (good protection) to gain the small corner formed by the ramp. Climb the ramp to gain a second, much welcomed, bolt. Move left from the bolt, into the prominent corner. Continue to the top, on easier terrain to build a gear anchor.

Note: On pitch 1, it is possible to escape climber's right into the first pitch of Prelude at the second bolt and above the second bolt after a short unprotected section (the latter being a good way to tame the stretch between protection after the second bolt).

Location

Start: The approach through the talus brings you roughly to the main corner for Hesitation. Approach as for Hesitation, but follow the wall to climber's right until you come to an obvious rockfall runout. You should see an obvious, large rock fall scar with a "zig-zag" roof up to the right of the climb. This route shares its start with Prelude.

Descent: See the Upper Washbowl Cliff page for descent information for the cliff.

Protection

A single set from #00 Metolius TCU size to hand-size pieces. Doubles in the TCU sizes might not be the worst thing for Pitch 3. Stoppers.

Pitch 1: 2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 3: 2 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

p3 nice fall day.  Matt Nuaman.
[Hide Photo] p3 nice fall day. Matt Nuaman.
Simon pulling the step on p2
[Hide Photo] Simon pulling the step on p2
Marc entering the hanging corner. Serious exposure and heady 5.8 climbing make the last pitch a memorable one.
[Hide Photo] Marc entering the hanging corner. Serious exposure and heady 5.8 climbing make the last pitch a memorable one.
Last pitch of Overture! Doesn't let up for a second! Extra small cams would make protecting this very G.
[Hide Photo] Last pitch of Overture! Doesn't let up for a second! Extra small cams would make protecting this very G.
Higher E
[Hide Photo] Higher E
Simon at the first bolt on p3
[Hide Photo] Simon at the first bolt on p3
Ben reaching through the last tenuous moves of Overture
[Hide Photo] Ben reaching through the last tenuous moves of Overture
Final traverse on pitch 3 (Loren Swears pictured).
[Hide Photo] Final traverse on pitch 3 (Loren Swears pictured).
Royce going through the business on Overture, final pitch.
[Hide Photo] Royce going through the business on Overture, final pitch.
Simon on the thrilling last pitch of Overture
[Hide Photo] Simon on the thrilling last pitch of Overture
Dennis on the final pitch of "Overture".  Photo, Chris Duca
[Hide Photo] Dennis on the final pitch of "Overture". Photo, Chris Duca

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I tried to separate opinion from fact in the route description, so here is my opinion.

Pitch 3 is heady and has a high deal of exposure. Being solid at the grade (same goes for your second) is probably advisable. The gear is solid, but care should be taken to think about protecting the second in various spots. There is potential for everyone to go for a bit of a ride if one were to pitch at key moments on the climb without gear. With all that said, enjoy the wild experience and exposure this great route affords. Nov 18, 2009
Matt G
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] It's been a couple of years since I followed this. I have yet to return to lead it but Greg is right. I've never felt more exposed in my life. High E at the Gunks doesn't even come close. Be ready for a thrill, and bring your prusiks! Aug 8, 2011
[Hide Comment] dont be intimidated by the other posts. this route is of moderate exposure and the scarry(?) dihedral stepover can be avoided by climbing higher on the arete (also easier). If you are a well experienced 5.8 climber and comfortable relying on microcams, then you will find this route to be very fun. I think the 5.10 1st pitch is mostly a slab pitch, and the crack to the right is much more rewarding and esthetic. the 2nd pitch should be rated a 5.7, and the third pitch atleast a 5.8+ or .9. it offers a variety of challenging, atypical, but awesome climbing moves. highly recommended. Oct 10, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Pitches 1 & 2 of Flashdance make for a really good approach to the Overture ramp. This provides a more technical/harder approach for those looking for a fuller climbing experience. I highly recommend it as the way to approach pitch 3 of Overture. Additionally at the end of the ramp I find it's best to build the belay below the dinner table ledge as it sets you up better to belay the leader for the last pitch. May 19, 2013
Benjamin Brooke
San Pedro, CA
 
[Hide Comment] agree that pitch 2 is harder than 5.6. pulling that crack through the overhanging face is the hardest move on the prelude to overture linkup in my opinion. pitch 3 is a gem. exposed and committing with odd, but fun moves. I think that 5.8 is fair. It is never strenuous and the feet are mostly good. the extreme exposure and small gear make it heady but not harder. also, agree that falls in a couple spots for either the leader or follower would be bad news. but its totally worth getting on. when a climb is good but doesnt remind you of any other climbs you have done its something special. Sep 29, 2013
Dom R
Estes Park, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Possibly my new favorite multi in the ADK. What a fantastic climb, we did the prelude/overture linkup and it did not disappoint. If it were more popular and if the actual route was the linkup not the 10A start then this climb would easily be on the Adirondack classics list on this site. I do not think the second pitch is at all harder than 5.6 what more can you ask for then a bomber jug and jam there? If anything I'd call it 5.6awkward or short-hand 5.6ADK I mean have you climbed the wiessner route on this cliff? Regardless have fun on the third pitch, it's amazing and that dihedral really is bottomless. Prelude is pretty great too. Sep 7, 2014
Dom R
Estes Park, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Just led High E this weekend, I concur that overture has way more exposure. The thing is, you're forced to look down while climbing the third pitch. Oct 14, 2014
Jon Po
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Don't underestimate the "unprotected 5.7 boulder problem start" especially if the feet under the bulge are wet! Otherwise an exquisite route! Good gear the whole way! Get on it! The 5.10a first pitch is really more of a variation then a different climb. I ended up climbing that to avoid the soaking wet crux corner of Prelude. I would also recommend climbing the crack about 1 foot right of the arete on the second pitch. It doesn't really increase difficulty but it jacks up the exposure wayyyy high! Don't forget to really protect your second for the "step down" off the second belay. Having a confident follower is a good idea for this one! Jun 24, 2015