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Saucerful of Secrets
5.11+,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.5 from 25
votes
FA: Unlisted
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (10) Pine Creek…
> Magic Mountain
> N Face
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Saucerful of Secrets features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.
The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.
The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.
Rap the route with 2 ropes [or see comments below-- there may be other ways it works out]
Location
This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of
Cartwright Corner, which is just right of
Community Pillar on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.
Protection
Single rack from TCUs to 3", including 10+ quickdraws.
![Ryan on the 5 star pitch 3 of Saucerful of Secrets]()
[Hide Photo] Ryan on the 5 star pitch 3 of Saucerful of Secrets
![Josh on the crux arete pitch of the route. November 2009.]()
[Hide Photo] Josh on the crux arete pitch of the route. November 2009.
![Follow the wavy crack on the left of the photo to the bolted arête. Steeper than it looks in the photo.]()
[Hide Photo] Follow the wavy crack on the left of the photo to the bolted arête. Steeper than it looks in the photo.
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Western North America
Fayetteville, NC
Unfortunately, you have to climb 300ft of choss to gain the good stuff. Maybe the best way is to climb a nearby route, and rap in from the top? Didn't do the 10c finish, but it looks good. Apr 10, 2016
SLC, UT
Revelstoke, BC
I'd echo Walden's comment about wanting a small cam for the lower crux on the money pitch. BD 0.1 fits perfect, and it's very obvious where to place it. Doubles in the finger sizes were nice to have, but singles will do.
We climbed this as a party of 3, and rapped with 2 ropes. However, there is now a bolted rappel station halfway down P2 on the climber's left. If you're willing to use the Chocolate Flakes anchors for the upper rappels and utilize this new(ish) station on P2, it should be no problem to get off this thing with a single 60m rope. Oct 17, 2021
Boulder, CO
There are probably no individual moves on the lower crux section harder than 11a but the climbing is sustained and adds up quickly, especially when placing gear. It protects beautifully with a single rack from tiny to 3. The upper bolted arete is pumpy but contrary to the description above has several good rests and checks in at around 11b. It's a lot to put together so overall 11c/d felt about right.
The 50' 10c finishing pitch is meh with lots of suspect rock. I'd recommend bringing 4 extra draws and linking to the top to make a ~200 foot megapitch.
As others have suggested it appears that you can rap the route with a single rope although we chose to rap Chocolate Flakes. Oct 31, 2021
Broomfield