[Hide Comment] This problem is graded V7 in Bob Banks' guidebook. The general consensus amongst locals is that Smooth Criminal clocks in somewhere between V5 and V6. This is, after all, Santa Barbara sandstone (not a geological term), and the character of holds is always in flux. Maybe it used to be harder, maybe it didn't, but either way, take the grade with a grain of salt. Apr 18, 2010

[Hide Comment] This problem felt like it took me *ages* to put together even knowing the beta. I must have had a mental block on it or something, because once I finally got it, it didn't seem too bad. That said, I still have more trouble with this thing than any of the other "V5"s around. Maybe it just plays to my weaknesses..

I have heard that both the sloper side-pull and the good crimp used to be worse, and the problem has gotten a little harder in the past week or two. The decent undercling that you could use to check the swing as you came around the corner is no more. Apr 19, 2010

[Hide Comment] Haven't linked the whole thing yet (gassed on the upper easy portion 3 times after working the start for a couple hours in a miserably cold wind), but I think V6 is by no means a soft rating. That being said, V7 seems high for something I was able to work in one session. I found a heel toe to work better for me than a toe hook. Can't wait to get back to SB and send this wicked problem. May 10, 2010

[Hide Comment] With the undercling broken I still don't think this quite V7, but very close to it. IMO the movement on the bottom section has drastically changed and what was once a two-move "establish-and-throw" sequence is now just a "throw-and-hold-on-for-dear-life" sequence.
I think I like it better now, despite the fact that I no longer feel that it lives up to its name. Aug 18, 2010

[Hide Comment] A couple things about Smooth Criminal to explain why it is V7 in O11.

1. The crimp that you throw out to has undergone many states of good/bad. Originally, it was a really thin crimp, very difficult to stick and hard to pull off of. Over the years it has broken into different sizes of good and bad and settled into what is now a very good incut.
2. the undercling to check that swing was never used in any early ascents that I saw (we were too dumb). Apparently it's gone now, but it was never a factor on the original grade.
3. The sloper on the left arete has an edge for the fingertips that mysteriously appeared a few years ago, kind of around the time Call Me got chipped, which made it really suspicious. Hard to say though if it was chipped, or if it eroded like that, but that sucker originally was super smooth.

That said, I'd call it V5, but more importantly, it's still one of the best problems in Santa Barbara in my eyes. Sep 2, 2010

[Hide Comment] V5 in good conditions. V-Awful in hot, late August conditions.

Do yourself a favor and don't try this problem in the sun of a scorching afternoon. Aug 27, 2011

[Hide Comment] After sending it today in average conditions I would call it V6. On a cool dry morning I would say it could be V5. The undercling bob was talking about is still usable but very small, but the problem is harder without it. Feb 23, 2012

[Hide Comment] Awesome problem. In my opinion it fits the v6 grade. Power in the beginning to subtle technical balance in the end. I didn't use "the undercling" and honestly don't think it would have been any easier with it. Set your left hand up and stand up to the crimp. No swing required. Dec 7, 2012

[Hide Comment] For the record Dave Hunt and Niel Crancer put up this awesome problem.One of there friends was doing a dance routine to Micheal Jackson's song Smooth Criminal at the time so this is how the name came to be. Bob is right about the rating because the problem has drastically changed over the years and most likely has been chipped.
I think it has lost a star or two, but that is just my opinion. Neil told me that he no longer climbs this problem, and is still pretty mad about it being altered. Jul 11, 2013

[Hide Comment] So..... Is there any way to get the pof off the right hand starting hold or are we just stuck with a little bit of France in our backyard? Mar 15, 2014

[Hide Comment] Please refrain from brushing the holds on this problem, and others on sandstone. It erodes the holds, permanently changing the climb. The climb is very enjoyable and doable the way it is, coming in at solid V5 or soft V6. Wonderful line, let's keep it that way! Nov 29, 2014

[Hide Comment] There is nothing wrong with brushing holds, as long as you use a soft brush and an appropriate amount of pressure. In general, holds should be brushed regularly to prevent buildup of chalk. The best thing we can do to prevent hold erosion and breakage is keep our climbing shoes clean and wait for the rock to dry after rain. Dec 2, 2014

[Hide Comment] Anyone down-climbed Smooth Criminal yet? This would be difficult, also if anyone can then link it into Bandito, there's $5US up for grabs to the first person with video proof... Sep 30, 2015

[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=h_D3VFf… Mar 1, 2016

[Hide Comment] Beta video:
youtube.com/watch?v=CQupSm9…
Mar 5, 2017

[Hide Comment] Guys, bad news; the right starting hold (the glassy crimp) has blown out. I'm sure the problem still goes, but the first move, especially for the crossers out there, is now more difficult. I've added this to my to-do list for if I ever invent a time machine. Until then, we must trudge on. Mar 19, 2017

[Hide Comment] Smooth Criminal seems to keep falling apart. For those who used the undercling, it is now gone. May 6, 2017

[Hide Comment] Definitely still goes! I think it's still a V6 too. Best way to get it done now is with the furthest right hand grainy half pad crimp where the hold used to be. Mar 19, 2019

[Hide Comment] Right hand start is now a decent crimp. Undercling is slowly coming back, and is currently slopey but useable. The right hand crimp you go for is more incut than ever. All things considered, still goes with the same sequence, in the 5/6 range. Jul 19, 2019

[Hide Comment] Great thread. Spent my first day at the Brickyard recently and loved it. Here's a clip showing the current state of the Smooth Criminal. Killer problem. youtu.be/McA2xMV0AaQ Aug 1, 2019

[Hide Comment] man I need to come back for the repeat. I always hated the starting hold and now that it's gone maybe it's even better :0 Aug 1, 2019

[Hide Comment] Thanks for the updated beta @AJ Oct 8, 2019